hmmmm ..... Wish I could spend a lot more, but decided to plant on one side all blue gladiolus (around 30 I guess), in the middle a jiant spread of huge zinnia's/color variety, then on the right side a slew of fushia w/white lillies (so expensive but very gorgeous flower indeed!) The background will be the biggest/tallest/largest sunflower possible/plant those every year. Aren't sunflowers charming? and inexpenive :-)
any idea's for a nice border? some type of greenery that's highly attractive, grows well in full sun?
What's your gardening plans this season? :o)
HOw do you plan on designing your garden(s) this spring/summer?
sounds good so far....but let me advise...if u dont mind. I am a master gardener and have just this year decided that I dont like bulbs (gladiolus)....cause after they bloom...then what??? Do a lilly specimen garden. In the back, plant 'Obedience plant' or (physotegia)...sp??...then in the middle plant some nice day lilies, then in front plant some nice low growing Asiatic lilies....good luck...hope it goes well...
Reply:Make your outdoor landscaping beautiful all day long by installing low voltage lighting. Low voltage lighting is sold in many styles and stress important parts of your home or garden at night. Outdoor lighting will also increase the safety of walking on your walkways after sunset. Low voltage landscape lights are simple and safe to install even if you don’t know anything about electricity.
Saturday, November 19, 2011
When can I plant seeds outside?
I would like to plant zinnia seeds and other annuals outside now in Cleveland, zone 6
When can I plant seeds outside?
It should give planting suggestions for each zone on the seed packet. If it's been warm where you are for at least 3 or 4 weeks you could probably plant but it might be best to start them indoors and move them outside later.
Reply:read the back of the package.
When can I plant seeds outside?
It should give planting suggestions for each zone on the seed packet. If it's been warm where you are for at least 3 or 4 weeks you could probably plant but it might be best to start them indoors and move them outside later.
Reply:read the back of the package.
Are most perennials planted by seeds?
I am new to gardening but would like to grow stuff I see in my garden book like candy tuft or astilbe, or alyssum or foam flower, or shasta daisies, etc.
I am new to this. do you just buy seeds for these at Wal-Mart or something and just throw them out like Zinnia seeds or something??
Are most perennials planted by seeds?
You can plant them from seeds, it will take much longer for them to establish (a full year or two), generally they are propegeted by root division. Usually a large established clump is dug up and divided into many smaller clumps, best done in the fall. Usually root divisions will bloom the first year.
Reply:I've started getting into flowers the past few years. It depends a lot on where you live -- what zone is it? I live in a very cold climate (zone 4), so what works for me may not work for you. I'd go to the library and check out some old gardening mags if I were you. Fine Gardening by Taunton Press is good, and so is the old Organic Gardening -- I'm thinking the early to mid 90s.
Alyssum I would grow from seed, but in little pots that I'd set by a sunny window. I'd put them in the dirt about the middle of March so they'd be ready for the garden in the middle of May. They self-seed I hear, but I've not had much luck with that. Alyssum is an annual, BTW.
Shasta daisies, if I remember right, are easy to divide. They spread by growing through the roots, so find a gardener who has them, and ask if you can dig up a scoop of the daisies. (-: They tend to take over a garden if you are not careful.
You can find gardening brochures for your area at your County Extension Agent. If you have a big/rich county, they may even be on-line.
Throwing out seeds sometimes works (I have done this with poppies), but I often find the weeds take over. Starting seeds in little pots gives them some strength so they can fight the weeds. Also, you get a good chance to see what the babies look like, so you don't accidentally weed them if they self-seed next year.
Good luck!
Reply:go and buy the plants when they are available, most things are not all that easy to raise from seed, though shasta daisies, zinnia and marigold are easy. you need to weed the area, rake the soil till its very fine, make a row with a stick and drop your seeds in a couple of inches apart, then cover with a thin layer of soil. some seeds need to be deep, some need to be on top of the soil, so its much easier to plant the plants.
Reply:I bought "mixed wild flowers" last year in a package at Walmart. Followed the directions on the package. On the package there is a picture of short %26amp; tall flowers of all different colours. They are perenials. They were the most colourful beautiful flowers I ever had. I planted them closer a bit than directions on package so the wind couldn't blow them over. Shop early planting date is on package. I plant all perenials by seed. You can bye then already planted to transplant.
loops
I am new to this. do you just buy seeds for these at Wal-Mart or something and just throw them out like Zinnia seeds or something??
Are most perennials planted by seeds?
You can plant them from seeds, it will take much longer for them to establish (a full year or two), generally they are propegeted by root division. Usually a large established clump is dug up and divided into many smaller clumps, best done in the fall. Usually root divisions will bloom the first year.
Reply:I've started getting into flowers the past few years. It depends a lot on where you live -- what zone is it? I live in a very cold climate (zone 4), so what works for me may not work for you. I'd go to the library and check out some old gardening mags if I were you. Fine Gardening by Taunton Press is good, and so is the old Organic Gardening -- I'm thinking the early to mid 90s.
Alyssum I would grow from seed, but in little pots that I'd set by a sunny window. I'd put them in the dirt about the middle of March so they'd be ready for the garden in the middle of May. They self-seed I hear, but I've not had much luck with that. Alyssum is an annual, BTW.
Shasta daisies, if I remember right, are easy to divide. They spread by growing through the roots, so find a gardener who has them, and ask if you can dig up a scoop of the daisies. (-: They tend to take over a garden if you are not careful.
You can find gardening brochures for your area at your County Extension Agent. If you have a big/rich county, they may even be on-line.
Throwing out seeds sometimes works (I have done this with poppies), but I often find the weeds take over. Starting seeds in little pots gives them some strength so they can fight the weeds. Also, you get a good chance to see what the babies look like, so you don't accidentally weed them if they self-seed next year.
Good luck!
Reply:go and buy the plants when they are available, most things are not all that easy to raise from seed, though shasta daisies, zinnia and marigold are easy. you need to weed the area, rake the soil till its very fine, make a row with a stick and drop your seeds in a couple of inches apart, then cover with a thin layer of soil. some seeds need to be deep, some need to be on top of the soil, so its much easier to plant the plants.
Reply:I bought "mixed wild flowers" last year in a package at Walmart. Followed the directions on the package. On the package there is a picture of short %26amp; tall flowers of all different colours. They are perenials. They were the most colourful beautiful flowers I ever had. I planted them closer a bit than directions on package so the wind couldn't blow them over. Shop early planting date is on package. I plant all perenials by seed. You can bye then already planted to transplant.
loops
Basic gardening tips for planting Zinnias?
this past summer my mother bought some Zinnia plants which i planted and grew beautifully. i would love to grow them again %26amp; have already bought seeds, but have never planted seeds before %26amp; will need some help.
i live in south texas where it is allllways hot. i hope to plant them next month hopefully. it is always summer in this town so i don't think it would be a problem. seriously we had like 7 cold days for 'winter'
Basic gardening tips for planting Zinnias?
My mom always had these in Waco, Texas - not quite "south Texas," but still plenty hot in the summer. Just space the seeds about an inch apart, cover with dirt, and water on a regular basis, and you should have zinnias in no time. Once the plants get about a foot high, pinch then ends off so that they will branch, unless you want just a few big blossoms. They're EASY to grow - enjoy!
Reply:i plant these every year.. I'm in zone 5 and i usually just place the seeds.. loosely.. then lightly cover with dirt... then water thoroughly... keep then moist until you see them sprout ...
they will flower fairly quick... if you want a lot of blooms .. pinch off old faded flowers and it will continue to bloom.. pretty quick ..some of my favorite flowers..
in some spots i plan them, i plant cosmos with them..;)
good luck..
Reply:You could almost throw them out in the soil and they would thrive! I use to plant a row of them along the end of our veggie garden ( seeds too) and always had beautiful flowers. Get the giant Zinnas. You will be very pleased with the way they look when blooming.
Reply:Super easy to grow. Throw down some seeds, water daily until you see sprouts. Zinnias love warm weather and full sun. You'll probably have volunteers from your last season plants. MiracleGro every 2 weeks. Don't be afraid to cut lots of flowers for inside, encourages more blooms. Save some seeds for next year.
Reply:Not hard or compacted soil for the development of baby roots. Zinnias are very easy. Plenty of sunshine, air movement between plants, and water well. They work well as cut flowers. Dead head older blooms to encourage reblooming. They are tough plants and have a long bloom season. You should have no problems.
Reply:Make sure you've got some good soil~ add compost. Zinnias are fairly easy plants and give you alot for hardly any work. Once the bloom, cut spent blooms and cut for bouquets. This encourages new blooms. Being in the south where it's hot, they'll need PLENTY of water. They are sun lovers, just water them often. Also, you can save spent blooms and dry them~ using their seeds for planting next year. Enjoy!
i live in south texas where it is allllways hot. i hope to plant them next month hopefully. it is always summer in this town so i don't think it would be a problem. seriously we had like 7 cold days for 'winter'
Basic gardening tips for planting Zinnias?
My mom always had these in Waco, Texas - not quite "south Texas," but still plenty hot in the summer. Just space the seeds about an inch apart, cover with dirt, and water on a regular basis, and you should have zinnias in no time. Once the plants get about a foot high, pinch then ends off so that they will branch, unless you want just a few big blossoms. They're EASY to grow - enjoy!
Reply:i plant these every year.. I'm in zone 5 and i usually just place the seeds.. loosely.. then lightly cover with dirt... then water thoroughly... keep then moist until you see them sprout ...
they will flower fairly quick... if you want a lot of blooms .. pinch off old faded flowers and it will continue to bloom.. pretty quick ..some of my favorite flowers..
in some spots i plan them, i plant cosmos with them..;)
good luck..
Reply:You could almost throw them out in the soil and they would thrive! I use to plant a row of them along the end of our veggie garden ( seeds too) and always had beautiful flowers. Get the giant Zinnas. You will be very pleased with the way they look when blooming.
Reply:Super easy to grow. Throw down some seeds, water daily until you see sprouts. Zinnias love warm weather and full sun. You'll probably have volunteers from your last season plants. MiracleGro every 2 weeks. Don't be afraid to cut lots of flowers for inside, encourages more blooms. Save some seeds for next year.
Reply:Not hard or compacted soil for the development of baby roots. Zinnias are very easy. Plenty of sunshine, air movement between plants, and water well. They work well as cut flowers. Dead head older blooms to encourage reblooming. They are tough plants and have a long bloom season. You should have no problems.
Reply:Make sure you've got some good soil~ add compost. Zinnias are fairly easy plants and give you alot for hardly any work. Once the bloom, cut spent blooms and cut for bouquets. This encourages new blooms. Being in the south where it's hot, they'll need PLENTY of water. They are sun lovers, just water them often. Also, you can save spent blooms and dry them~ using their seeds for planting next year. Enjoy!
How to bring back this flower?
my friend has some zinnia and she had a lot of snails around and tried to get them away from the flowers by pouring salt on them. thid in turn also caused the flowers to wilt. does anyone have some suggestions on how to bring these flowers back to life or is their no hope?
How to bring back this flower?
You have to wait until the flower is gone, as in it decomposes. I had a flower that was like gone and you could only see soil. Then, I watered it and took care of it and it came back to life and now, it is blooming beautifully.
Reply:Try cutting most of the part that is above the soil. Continue to water and fertilize it and it should come right back up. it might take a while though.
Reply:Scoop up as much salt as you can off the top. Are they in pots? If they are put them in the sink and fill the sink with water. You are going to have to get the salt out of the soil or they will die. If they are in the ground flood them you have to get as much of the salt out as you can. The next time there is some products that help with snails one is diatanatious earth. I don't think I spelled that correctly but when they crawl over it the belly gets cut causing the snail to die but it will not hurt you. If they are in a flower bed get some tin pie pans and bury them to the rim poor in beer the beer will attract them because of the yeast they will crawl in and drowned.
Reply:I feel sure the salt has killed the flowers. The soil is also ruined for future flowers. She should dig out the soil and put in fresh for next years flowers.
Or she can have raised beds. My hubby and I use potting soil for raised beds. Go here for pictures and how to build them or buy them:
http://www.eartheasy.com/grow_raised_bed...
How to bring back this flower?
You have to wait until the flower is gone, as in it decomposes. I had a flower that was like gone and you could only see soil. Then, I watered it and took care of it and it came back to life and now, it is blooming beautifully.
Reply:Try cutting most of the part that is above the soil. Continue to water and fertilize it and it should come right back up. it might take a while though.
Reply:Scoop up as much salt as you can off the top. Are they in pots? If they are put them in the sink and fill the sink with water. You are going to have to get the salt out of the soil or they will die. If they are in the ground flood them you have to get as much of the salt out as you can. The next time there is some products that help with snails one is diatanatious earth. I don't think I spelled that correctly but when they crawl over it the belly gets cut causing the snail to die but it will not hurt you. If they are in a flower bed get some tin pie pans and bury them to the rim poor in beer the beer will attract them because of the yeast they will crawl in and drowned.
Reply:I feel sure the salt has killed the flowers. The soil is also ruined for future flowers. She should dig out the soil and put in fresh for next years flowers.
Or she can have raised beds. My hubby and I use potting soil for raised beds. Go here for pictures and how to build them or buy them:
http://www.eartheasy.com/grow_raised_bed...
Tips on growing flowers from seed?
Finally I finished messing with my perennials and planting annuals. I still want more garden fun though! I've never been able to successfully grow anything from seed, but I'm still trying. I know I should have started in spring or even earlier indoors, but I still want to try and get some annuals blooming in the late summer and early fall (I'm in zone 7, we have warm weather until about mid-October). I have seed packets for zinnias, nasturtium, cosmos, oriental poppies, and sunflowers. A week ago I planted some sunflowers indoors in some of those starter trays and they're sprouting. I'm going to try both transplanting the sunflowers and directly sowing some in the soil against my back wall border outside. I have some containers that I want to try growing the other flowers in. Is it too late in the season to try, and what are some good ways that I can get healthy annuals to grow from seed?
Tips on growing flowers from seed?
It is hot for transplanting plants. Maybe not in the shade but it the sun. Get them in shade outside first to reduce the chance of shock.
Always water. It covers up for many problems. Miracle Grow is great but use Root Stimulator at first. Of course, good, deep, soil with lots of good humis is great with a layer of mulch.
Reply:In your zone you should be able to direct seed now and still get good results by late summer. After seeds sprout be sur to thin according to packet directions. Sunflowers will definitely do well and are so easy for excellent results. Actually all of the ones you have should do well for you, Just get them in the prepared soil and water.
Reply:If you are using seeds you should first buy small flower containers and potting soil /perlite mix , the perlite helps to keep the soil airated , so it does not get to firm, put the seed about a half inch to an inch into the soil , keep your containers indoors in a light fairly warm room , you should have no problem getting them to sprout, after the start to sprout keep them indoors until they are almost to big for the container, then take them outdoors and plant them, you should have no problem then.
Tips on growing flowers from seed?
It is hot for transplanting plants. Maybe not in the shade but it the sun. Get them in shade outside first to reduce the chance of shock.
Always water. It covers up for many problems. Miracle Grow is great but use Root Stimulator at first. Of course, good, deep, soil with lots of good humis is great with a layer of mulch.
Reply:In your zone you should be able to direct seed now and still get good results by late summer. After seeds sprout be sur to thin according to packet directions. Sunflowers will definitely do well and are so easy for excellent results. Actually all of the ones you have should do well for you, Just get them in the prepared soil and water.
Reply:If you are using seeds you should first buy small flower containers and potting soil /perlite mix , the perlite helps to keep the soil airated , so it does not get to firm, put the seed about a half inch to an inch into the soil , keep your containers indoors in a light fairly warm room , you should have no problem getting them to sprout, after the start to sprout keep them indoors until they are almost to big for the container, then take them outdoors and plant them, you should have no problem then.
Perennials that bloom spring to fall?
I want some ideas on plants that bloom most of the season, perennials. I plant annuals every year, lots of zinnias and the like. I have hostas around and some daylillies. Any other ideas for more COLOR?
Perennials that bloom spring to fall?
It really depends on your zone, but here's a link that will provide you with interactive information:
http://www.perennials.com/topten.html Go to Advanced Search, and it will probably provide you with all the info you could possibly desire.
ps...Viola and Corydalis are a couple of good perennials to start with.
Happy Gardening!
http://www.perennials.com/results.html?s...
Reply:the best answer is to check with the florist shops- or Greenhouses in your area they are supposed to know about flowers, as that is their job. If they can not help you I would find one that can.
Check on the intranet by http://www.askjeeves.com
ice skates
Perennials that bloom spring to fall?
It really depends on your zone, but here's a link that will provide you with interactive information:
http://www.perennials.com/topten.html Go to Advanced Search, and it will probably provide you with all the info you could possibly desire.
ps...Viola and Corydalis are a couple of good perennials to start with.
Happy Gardening!
http://www.perennials.com/results.html?s...
Reply:the best answer is to check with the florist shops- or Greenhouses in your area they are supposed to know about flowers, as that is their job. If they can not help you I would find one that can.
Check on the intranet by http://www.askjeeves.com
ice skates
How do I get rid of brown spots on my zinnias?
It raining alot here. Could it be mildew
How do I get rid of brown spots on my zinnias?
Zinnias can sometimes be very tricky because they are susceptible to so many different things, ie. fungus, thrips, aphids etc. They really need to be put on a preventative maintenance schedule. For example spraying with a fungicide on a weekly basis whether or not they have it. They almost always get fungus after it rains alot. They also need alot of fertilizer too (1x a week at least). You'll get bigger and nicer plants this way and you won't have big holes in your plants from missing branches because the fungus killed it.
Reply:these brown spots could be from mildew...they alos could be from an insect....some garden pests (thwirps) are so tiny you cannt see them ...they get between the layers of the plant and literally suck the life out of them... especially in this rainy weather...I would suggest that you pick an effected leaf and take it to your local garden center and ask for suggestions....
Reply:Could be mildew, but if there is a lot of sun it could also be burnt spots. In that case give them some shade if possible. I am having that prob. My yard gets FULL sun all day, though I keep them moist, they tend to fade slightly and get brownish spots- continue to grow and bloom new flowers- keep trying!
How do I get rid of brown spots on my zinnias?
Zinnias can sometimes be very tricky because they are susceptible to so many different things, ie. fungus, thrips, aphids etc. They really need to be put on a preventative maintenance schedule. For example spraying with a fungicide on a weekly basis whether or not they have it. They almost always get fungus after it rains alot. They also need alot of fertilizer too (1x a week at least). You'll get bigger and nicer plants this way and you won't have big holes in your plants from missing branches because the fungus killed it.
Reply:these brown spots could be from mildew...they alos could be from an insect....some garden pests (thwirps) are so tiny you cannt see them ...they get between the layers of the plant and literally suck the life out of them... especially in this rainy weather...I would suggest that you pick an effected leaf and take it to your local garden center and ask for suggestions....
Reply:Could be mildew, but if there is a lot of sun it could also be burnt spots. In that case give them some shade if possible. I am having that prob. My yard gets FULL sun all day, though I keep them moist, they tend to fade slightly and get brownish spots- continue to grow and bloom new flowers- keep trying!
What is 25 mg in terms of seed packets?
So i bought some Zinnias, but it said 25 mg.
while other packets had numbers higher than that, but with a feeling of more seeds. So, i'm guessing its the amount of seeds inside the packet?
How much is 25 mg..
What is 25 mg in terms of seed packets?
it refers to the total weight of seeds the packet contains. If the seeds are large ad heavy, it will be very few seeds. If they are tiny seeds, there will be many of them.
Really, 25 mg of Zinnias is probably no more than 10 seeds. they must be special. I have some seed packets here that are Burpee's Select Zinneas, 405 mg , and I really doubt there are even 40 seeds in there.
it is a metric measure, and it doesn't amount to a lot of Zinneas.
Reply:It's the weight of a standard packet. The 35 mg ones have more in them......
Reply:Answer
one packet
Answer
One packet, then prepare yourself for jail.
Reply:lol
Reply:25 mg is about 1/10 ounce. But zinnia seeds weigh practically nothing. You should have about 30 seeds.
Reply:25 milligrams that's 0.025 grams , Not very heavy
"Alice K" 25mg= 0.00088 ounces That's a lot less than 0.1
while other packets had numbers higher than that, but with a feeling of more seeds. So, i'm guessing its the amount of seeds inside the packet?
How much is 25 mg..
What is 25 mg in terms of seed packets?
it refers to the total weight of seeds the packet contains. If the seeds are large ad heavy, it will be very few seeds. If they are tiny seeds, there will be many of them.
Really, 25 mg of Zinnias is probably no more than 10 seeds. they must be special. I have some seed packets here that are Burpee's Select Zinneas, 405 mg , and I really doubt there are even 40 seeds in there.
it is a metric measure, and it doesn't amount to a lot of Zinneas.
Reply:It's the weight of a standard packet. The 35 mg ones have more in them......
Reply:Answer
one packet
Answer
One packet, then prepare yourself for jail.
Reply:lol
Reply:25 mg is about 1/10 ounce. But zinnia seeds weigh practically nothing. You should have about 30 seeds.
Reply:25 milligrams that's 0.025 grams , Not very heavy
"Alice K" 25mg= 0.00088 ounces That's a lot less than 0.1
I need information on the following plants, the information I need is: Sun or shade or both, spacing,and?
other information continued water requirements, container or ground, colors available.
Impatiens
Lantana
Sweet Potato Vine (BLACKIE), (Marguerite)
Begonia
Celosia
Coleus
Dusty Miller
Geranium
Gerbera
Marigold
Pentas
Pepper Golden Summer
Petunia (Blue Spread), ( Red Spread)
Portulaca
Salvia
Tomato Beefmaster
Vinca
Zinnia
Boston Fern
Dianthus
Double Impatiens- white,red,rose on white
I need information on the following plants, the information I need is: Sun or shade or both, spacing,and?
Checkout the site below, there are quite a few flowers on these pages and the basic sun, shade, growing requirements for each
Reply:These sound like mostly annuals. They will have planting instructions on th etag that comes w/them. From what I know, most of these plants like sun.
Reply:Most of those like lots of sun- Lantana, Dusty Miller, Pentas, Marigolds,Diathus, Salvia Tomatoes, Petunias- and they don't need a lot of water.
The guy ahead of me said they were annuals but here in Calif. A lot of them are perrenials.
Impatiens
Lantana
Sweet Potato Vine (BLACKIE), (Marguerite)
Begonia
Celosia
Coleus
Dusty Miller
Geranium
Gerbera
Marigold
Pentas
Pepper Golden Summer
Petunia (Blue Spread), ( Red Spread)
Portulaca
Salvia
Tomato Beefmaster
Vinca
Zinnia
Boston Fern
Dianthus
Double Impatiens- white,red,rose on white
I need information on the following plants, the information I need is: Sun or shade or both, spacing,and?
Checkout the site below, there are quite a few flowers on these pages and the basic sun, shade, growing requirements for each
Reply:These sound like mostly annuals. They will have planting instructions on th etag that comes w/them. From what I know, most of these plants like sun.
Reply:Most of those like lots of sun- Lantana, Dusty Miller, Pentas, Marigolds,Diathus, Salvia Tomatoes, Petunias- and they don't need a lot of water.
The guy ahead of me said they were annuals but here in Calif. A lot of them are perrenials.
What is the meaning of word "ZINNIA"?
zin·ni·a /ˈzɪniə/ Pronunciation Key - Show Spelled Pronunciation[zin-ee-uh] Pronunciation Key - Show IPA Pronunciation
–noun any of several composite plants of the genus Zinnia, native to Mexico and adjacent areas, esp. the widely cultivated species Z. elegans, having variously colored, many-rayed flower heads.
What is the meaning of word "ZINNIA"?
–noun any of several composite plants of the genus Zinnia, native to Mexico and adjacent areas, esp. the widely cultivated species Z. elegans, having variously colored, many-rayed flower heads.
n. Any of various plants of the genus Zinnia, native to tropical America, especially Z. elegans, widely cultivated for its showy, rayed, variously colored flower heads. Also called regionally old maid, old maid flower.
zinnia
genus of herbs of the aster family, 1767, from Mod.L. (Linnæus, 1763), named for Ger. botanist Johann Gottfried Zinn (1729-59)
Reply:It is a type of flower. See here:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zinnia
Reply:It's a flower.
Reply:It is a flower.
Reply:it is name of a flower.
Reply:zin·ni·a /ˈzɪniə/
–noun
any of several composite plants of the genus Zinnia, native to Mexico and adjacent areas, esp. the widely cultivated species Z. elegans, having variously colored, many-rayed flower heads.
Reply:Main Entry: zin·nia
Pronunciation: 'zi-nE-%26amp;, 'zE-; 'zin-y%26amp;, 'zEn-
Function: noun
Etymology: New Latin, from Johann G. Zinn died 1759 German botanist
: any of a genus (Zinnia) of tropical American composite herbs and low shrubs that have showy flower heads with long-lasting ray flowers
Reply:17-20 Species of annuals, perennials and shrubs.
Have erect stems with solitary flowers in a range of warm colors.
Grow in humus rich soil in full sun and should be sheltered from strong winds.
Propagate by division.
Reply:As a girl's name:
ZINNIA
Gender: Feminine
Usage: English
Pronounced: ZIN-ee-a [key]
From the name of the flower, which was itself named for the German botanist Johann Zinn.
In Botany or horticulture:
A zinnia is a flowering plant.
Zinnia is a genus of 20 species of annual and perennial plants of family Asteraceae, originally from scrub and dry grassland in an area stretching from the American Southwest to South America, but primarily Mexico, and notable for their solitary long-stemmed flowers that come in a variety of bright colors.
Zinnia leaves are opposite and usually stalkless, with a shape ranging from linear to ovate, and pale to middle green in color. The flowers have a range of appearances, from a single row of petals, to a dome shape, with the colors white, chartreuse, yellow, orange, red, purple, and lilac.
Zinnias are popular garden flowers, usually grown from seed, and preferably in fertile, humus-rich, and well-drained soil, in an area with full sun. They will reseed themselves each year. Over 100 cultivars have been produced since selective breeding started in the 19th century.
Zinnia elegans is the familiar species, originally from Mexico and thus a warm-hot climate plant. Its leaves are lance-shaped and sandpapery in texture, and height ranges from 15 cm to 1 meter.
Zinnias seem especially favored by butterflies, and many gardeners add zinnias specifically to attract them.
The name of the genus derives from the German botanist Johann Gottfried Zinn (1727
Reply:A zinnia is a BEAUTIFUL flower! My mother grows them in her yard - a huge zinnia flower bed! There are all different colors and they have beautiful layers. The more you cut - the more they grow!
Go to Google image and search for zinnia bouquet for a beautiful picture of them.
Reply:Huge marigold? ;)
Reply:it is a plant
Reply:Any of a genus (Zinnia) of tropical American composite herbs and low shrubs that have showy flower heads with long-lasting ray flowers
skates
–noun any of several composite plants of the genus Zinnia, native to Mexico and adjacent areas, esp. the widely cultivated species Z. elegans, having variously colored, many-rayed flower heads.
What is the meaning of word "ZINNIA"?
–noun any of several composite plants of the genus Zinnia, native to Mexico and adjacent areas, esp. the widely cultivated species Z. elegans, having variously colored, many-rayed flower heads.
n. Any of various plants of the genus Zinnia, native to tropical America, especially Z. elegans, widely cultivated for its showy, rayed, variously colored flower heads. Also called regionally old maid, old maid flower.
zinnia
genus of herbs of the aster family, 1767, from Mod.L. (Linnæus, 1763), named for Ger. botanist Johann Gottfried Zinn (1729-59)
Reply:It is a type of flower. See here:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zinnia
Reply:It's a flower.
Reply:It is a flower.
Reply:it is name of a flower.
Reply:zin·ni·a /ˈzɪniə/
–noun
any of several composite plants of the genus Zinnia, native to Mexico and adjacent areas, esp. the widely cultivated species Z. elegans, having variously colored, many-rayed flower heads.
Reply:Main Entry: zin·nia
Pronunciation: 'zi-nE-%26amp;, 'zE-; 'zin-y%26amp;, 'zEn-
Function: noun
Etymology: New Latin, from Johann G. Zinn died 1759 German botanist
: any of a genus (Zinnia) of tropical American composite herbs and low shrubs that have showy flower heads with long-lasting ray flowers
Reply:17-20 Species of annuals, perennials and shrubs.
Have erect stems with solitary flowers in a range of warm colors.
Grow in humus rich soil in full sun and should be sheltered from strong winds.
Propagate by division.
Reply:As a girl's name:
ZINNIA
Gender: Feminine
Usage: English
Pronounced: ZIN-ee-a [key]
From the name of the flower, which was itself named for the German botanist Johann Zinn.
In Botany or horticulture:
A zinnia is a flowering plant.
Zinnia is a genus of 20 species of annual and perennial plants of family Asteraceae, originally from scrub and dry grassland in an area stretching from the American Southwest to South America, but primarily Mexico, and notable for their solitary long-stemmed flowers that come in a variety of bright colors.
Zinnia leaves are opposite and usually stalkless, with a shape ranging from linear to ovate, and pale to middle green in color. The flowers have a range of appearances, from a single row of petals, to a dome shape, with the colors white, chartreuse, yellow, orange, red, purple, and lilac.
Zinnias are popular garden flowers, usually grown from seed, and preferably in fertile, humus-rich, and well-drained soil, in an area with full sun. They will reseed themselves each year. Over 100 cultivars have been produced since selective breeding started in the 19th century.
Zinnia elegans is the familiar species, originally from Mexico and thus a warm-hot climate plant. Its leaves are lance-shaped and sandpapery in texture, and height ranges from 15 cm to 1 meter.
Zinnias seem especially favored by butterflies, and many gardeners add zinnias specifically to attract them.
The name of the genus derives from the German botanist Johann Gottfried Zinn (1727
Reply:A zinnia is a BEAUTIFUL flower! My mother grows them in her yard - a huge zinnia flower bed! There are all different colors and they have beautiful layers. The more you cut - the more they grow!
Go to Google image and search for zinnia bouquet for a beautiful picture of them.
Reply:Huge marigold? ;)
Reply:it is a plant
Reply:Any of a genus (Zinnia) of tropical American composite herbs and low shrubs that have showy flower heads with long-lasting ray flowers
skates
Can you plant zinnias in a planter for use as an office plant?
Not really, they like full sun. Bamboo is perfect! They sell small plants in decorative containers that you can find probably at your local grocery store floral dept.
Can you plant zinnias in a planter for use as an office plant?
sure, provided they can get enough light, air and water. Be a little trickier than some others. Not a perennial, either, will die eventually no matter what you do for it.
Reply:Zinnias are garden plants, they will not do well indoors.
Reply:Although a pretty flower, I'd not consider Zinnias as a good choice for an office planter.
Reply:No, they like full sun. If you want zinnias in the office, grow them in your garden and cut them to put in a vase.
Can you plant zinnias in a planter for use as an office plant?
sure, provided they can get enough light, air and water. Be a little trickier than some others. Not a perennial, either, will die eventually no matter what you do for it.
Reply:Zinnias are garden plants, they will not do well indoors.
Reply:Although a pretty flower, I'd not consider Zinnias as a good choice for an office planter.
Reply:No, they like full sun. If you want zinnias in the office, grow them in your garden and cut them to put in a vase.
Are most perennials very easy to plant?
like candy tuft, achilia, yarrow, phlox, etc?
do you plant many by throwing seeds out, just like you would for zinnias??
I am new to gardening.
Are most perennials very easy to plant?
Generally speaking, perennials are very easy to grow. I wouldn't just scatter the seeds without soil preparation first though. Make sure you have the taller ones to the back of the bed, medium height to the middle and smaller ones to the front. be careful with the colour schemes. Cooler colours i.e. Whites, Blues, Purples etc should be kept apart from Reds, Oranges and Pinks, although if you're clever, you can mix them without them looking messy. Plant the odd architectural plant here and there such as a Phormium or Cordyline and maybe a miniature Fruit Tree such as Cherry or Apple.
Reply:The Basics: Perennials
How to Design and Care for Perennial Gardens
For many gardeners, there's nothing like a full perennial border with a crisp edge of lawn.
Perennial plants are the backbone of nearly every flower garden. Unlike annual plants, which must be replanted each spring, herbaceous perennials die to the ground at the end of the season, and then regrow from the same roots the following year. People grow perennial flowers because they are such easy-care, dependable performers, and because they offer an enormous variety of color, texture and form. Here are the basics of garden design, plant selection and care.
The lifespan, bloom time, culture and form of perennial plants varies greatly. Some species, such as lupines and delphinium, are so called "short-lived" perennials, with a lifespan of just three or four years. Others may live as long as fifteen years, or even, in the case of peonies, a lifetime. Bloom time may last for only two weeks each year, or may extend over two or three months.
Some perennials, such as primroses, require deep humusy soil and plenty of shade, while others such as threadleaf coreopsis and cushion spurge wither away unless they grow in well-drained soil and full sun. Some perennials contain themselves in a nice, neat mound, while others, such as gooseneck loosestrife, will take over your entire garden. Some species should be cut back in midsummer, while others, such as hybrid lilies, may die if you remove their foliage.
There are so many different species and cultivars of perennial flowers to choose from that few people ever become completely familiar with all the options. For the perennial gardener, books are an invaluable resource. They provide photographs for identification (and inspiration!), cultural information, a description of growth habits, bloom time, color and characteristics of special cultivars. Invest in a good how-to book that has cultural information, and a color encyclopedia to help you identify plants and plan your selections.
What's in a Name?
It may be hard to believe, but scientific plant names are used to avoid confusion, not create it. They are developed by taxonomists to ensure that the same plant is called the same name throughout the world, regardless of language. Scientific plant names are usually a combination of Latin and Greek.
Common names, such as "bleeding heart," are often used to refer to all the plants in a genus and are useful unless you want to ensure you are purchasing a 24-inch high, spring-blooming bleeding heart (Dicentra spectabilis) rather than the ever-blooming species known as the fringed bleeding heart, which is only 12 inches high (Dicentra eximia). To learn more about botanical names, look for a copy of Gardener's Latin by Bill Neal (Algonquin Books, 1992).
Dicentra spectabilis 'Alba': (old-fashioned white bleeding heart)
Dicentra: The first name is the genus. It is always capitalized.
spectabilis: The second name is the species. It is not capitalized.
'Alba': The third name, which appears in single quotes, is the cultivar (cultivated variety).
Fellow gardeners are another great source of information about perennials. They can give you firsthand details about bloom time, height, hardiness and cultural requirements, and, if you visit their gardens, you can also see for yourself what the plants really look like up close. Nothing beats seeing a plant in a garden setting, where you can observe how it is being used. You may even go home with some pass-along plants for your own garden.
There's just no way to know how a plant will do for you unless you give it a try. If it turns out to be too tall, the color is wrong, or the plant doesn't thrive, you can always move it and try something different.
Perennial Planting Styles
Few if any "perennial gardens" contain only herbaceous perennials. Woody plants, such as shrubs, roses, and trees, are often incorporated to provide a backdrop for the perennial plants, or are used to fill in and give mass to the bed or border. Many gardeners include annuals or biennials in their perennial gardens to provide splashes of dependable color throughout the season. Bulbs are added for early spring color and ornamental grasses for their interesting textures and late-season beauty.
Traditionally, perennial gardens have been laid out in one of two ways: a border or an island bed. A border is typically a long, rectangular flower bed that is about two to four feet deep. The classic English perennial border, which was so popular in the first half of the 20th century, was often as much as eight feet deep and 200-feet long. But for most home gardeners, a better size is about three feet deep and about 12 to 15 feet long.
Borders are usually viewed from only one side, and are located in front of a backdrop. This backdrop may be created with shrubs, a hedge, a fence or a stone wall. A well-defined front edge is important. You may design a solo border, or a matched pair. When selecting plants, keep in mind that borders usually look best when there is a repeating theme of plants and colors.
An island bed is a garden that floats in a "sea" of lawn. The shape is irregular, with gentle curves and no sharp corners. It is usually designed to be viewed from all sides, with the tallest plants positioned along the center line of the bed, and the shortest plants around the edges. Island beds look best when they are generous in size. A good size for an island bed is 8-by-15 feet, with the tallest plants reaching a height of about five feet.
Of course perennial flower gardens sometimes look nothing like a traditional border or island bed. Rock gardens break all the rules, for the objective is usually to create an irregular, natural-looking rock outcropping where tiny alpine plants can be featured.
Shade gardens are often irregularly-shaped, because they follow the natural shade patterns of the trees above. Another emerging style for perennial gardens is the large, free-form garden. In this case, the garden is defined by a series of meandering paths that lead the viewer right into and then through the plantings. Perennial flowers can also be mixed in among shrubs, planted around your mailbox, used in woodland or streamside plantings, or even planted in containers.
Arranging Your Plants
The appearance of a perennial garden depends as much upon the shapes of your plants and how they are arranged, as upon their colors.
Height: You'll want to place the tallest plants in the back of the border, or in the center of an island bed, then work down in height, ending with the shortest plants around the edges of an island bed or the front of a border. Books and labels usually list the average mature height for a plant in bloom. Remember that many plants hold their flowers well above the foliage. This means that when the plant is out of bloom, it may be much shorter than the specified height.
Heights are also an average. When grown in poor, dry soil, a plant may be only half as tall as the same plant grown in rich, moist soil. Be prepared to move your plants around once you see how tall (or short) they really grow. Even the most experienced gardeners rearrange their plants (usually more than once!).
Width: A plant's width, or spread, is just as important as its height. Width figures given in books or on labels are also an average. The actual width of a plant will vary depending on soils, geographical location and the age of the plant. Be careful about locating slow-growers very close to rapid spreaders. The former may all but disappear by the end of the first growing season.
Spacing: Patience is a virtue, but when most people plant a perennial garden, their goal is to create a full effect as soon as possible. The challenge is to plant thickly, but not break the bank, or create a crowded, unhealthy situation two or three years down the line. When planting a grouping or "drift" of the same kind of plants, you can put them closer together to create a massed look more quickly.
Another trick is to place short-lived plants between slower-growing, long-lived plants. Most peonies, for example, have an ultimate spread of three feet, but it may take seven years for them to reach this size. While you're waiting, you could interplant with Shasta daisies, a fast-growing, short-lived plant that will provide a full look and plenty of flowers while the peonies get themselves established.
Drifts versus specimens: A garden planted with groupings of five or more plants of the same variety will display drifts of repeating colors and textures. In this type of garden, plants are used primarily as design elements that add up to a pleasing and integrated visual effect.
At the opposite end of the spectrum is the collector's garden, filled with onezies and twozies of all different kinds of plants. These are the gardens of people who simply love plants and want to have one of everything. The look of this type of garden may be a jumble of colors and textures, and maintenance is usually more challenging, but these gardens are about plants first, and design second.
How to Select Plants
When it comes to deciding which perennials to plant, most of us are not very deliberate about our choices. We succumb to a luscious photo in a catalog, stumble upon an irresistible beauty at the nursery, or a neighbor sends us home with a bag full of cast-offs. If you ever do set out to make an informed and deliberate choice, here are some of the things that you should think about.
Your site: Perennials, like all plants, will live longer and be healthier and more floriferous if they are planted in a location that suits them. Does your garden have sandy soil or is it heavy clay? Is it in the sun or shade? Is the soil moist or droughty? Is the pH high, low, or neutral? Is the site flat, gently sloped, or steep? A good reference book can help you figure out which plants will probably be happy in the growing conditions that you can provide.
Hardiness: If a plant is not hardy in your growing zone, it will not survive the winter. If you don't know which zone you live in, check a USDA Hardiness Zone Map. Though knowing your zone is very important, altitude, wind exposure, soils and snow cover can have a dramatic impact on plant hardiness, effectively shifting the hardiness rating for your garden by as much as a full zone.
For best results, choose plants that are well within your zone. You will probably be tempted by those that are at or even just beyond your growing zone. If you can afford to take the gamble (financially and emotionally), it can be very rewarding to discover that you can grow a couple of Zone 5 plants in your Zone 4 garden. Where snow cover is not dependable, a winter mulch of leaves or straw can help marginally hardy plants survive a cold winter. Well-drained soil is also a benefit. Heavy, wet soils will often heave and damage plant roots.
Northern gardeners concern themselves with the minimum temperatures that a plant will tolerate, but Southern gardeners must also pay attention to zone ratings. Many popular perennials, including lupines, peonies, and garden phlox, must be exposed to a period of subfreezing temperatures to produce a good display of flowers. Other perennials will simply not tolerate long periods of heat and humidity.
Color: In working with color, aim for a balance of integration and contrast. Too much of the same color can be monotonous, yet a cacophony of different colors can be jarring rather than pleasing to the eye. You may want to organize your garden around one color; or choose a theme such as pastels, cool colors, or hot colors. You can also experiment with different color themes in different parts of your garden—hot colors by the front door and cool colors in a quieter part of the yard.
Remember that few perennials are in bloom for more than a couple of weeks each year. Most of the time, plants are green, and it is their leaf form and foliage texture that are the "color" in your garden.
Bloom time: A perennial may be in bloom for two weeks a year or for as long as three months. If your objective is all-season color, choose several plants from each bloom season. When selecting plants for a spring garden, concentrate on those that bloom during April and May. After that peak, the garden may lack color for the rest of the season, but you will have achieved a spectacular spring display. For best effect, group at least two or three different varieties of plants together that will bloom at the same time.
Remember that specified bloom time is only an average. In California, April may be the peak bloom time for bearded iris, yet in Vermont, the same plant will not bloom until early June. Recording the bloom times of various perennials in your garden will become an invaluable reference. No book, no matter how good, will be as accurate as your own observations about when plants bloom and how they perform in your own garden.
Seedling, potted or field-grown: When purchasing perennials, try to get the largest, most mature plant that you can afford. The bigger the plant, the more quickly it will fill out and the sooner it will begin blooming. Typically plants are available in pot sizes ranging from 3-inch diameter to 12-inch diameter. Pot-grown perennials can be planted from spring through fall, and will suffer minimal transplant shock.
Some mail-order companies ship their plants bareroot (without soil). Bareroot perennials are usually available only in early spring when the plants are still dormant. The roots must be kept moist, and the plant should be put into the garden as soon as possible (within a couple of days). Once the plant is in the ground and has emerged from its dormant state, it will take hold relatively fast.
A few local nurseries still offer field-grown perennials. These plants are dug up when you come for them and they need to be transplanted immediately (within a few hours) to minimize transplant shock. Field-grown perennials are usually the largest and most mature plants around, but today most nurseries only offer container-grown perennials.
Vigor: Vigor can be good, but it can also create problems. Plants that are too vigorous can invade neighboring plants and gradually take over your entire garden. Determining a plant's propensity for invasiveness can be difficult, because poor growing conditions can render a normally invasive plant relatively tame, whereas in fertile soil, a normally restrained plant may exhibit invasive tendencies.
Look closely at plant descriptions and be wary of those described as "vigorous." This may be a euphemism for an invasive plant that you'll wish you never set eyes on. Perennials with a reputation for invasiveness include: bamboo, Macleaya cordata (plume poppy), Physostegia virginiana (obedient plant), Monarda (bee balm), Artemisia ludoviciana (Silver King artemisia), Lysimachia clethroides (gooseneck loosestrife), Tanacetum vulgare (tansy), Aegopodium (goutweed), and Boltonia asteroides.
Maintaining a Perennial Garden
Though most flowering perennials are dependable, easy-care performers, all perennial gardens require some maintenance. Here are the eight most important steps to ensure a healthy and floriferous garden:
1. Fertilizing
Most perennials are not heavy feeders and they will be happy with one spring application of a low-nitrogen, high-phosphorus fertilizer (5-10-5). For established plantings, scratch in a good handful of fertilizer around each plant. Annual or biennial applications of aged manure or finished compost will restore trace elements and improve soil texture and water retention.
2. Watering
A perennial garden does not require as much water as a vegetable garden. Depending on where you live, if you select plants suited to your site, and mulch them well, you may not need to water at all. If you live where summers are very dry and you do need to water, try to water deeply and avoid getting water on the foliage (soaker hoses and drip irrigation systems are great for perennial gardens).
3. Mulching
By early summer, a densely planted perennial garden will shade out most weeds. But a new garden, a spring garden or a garden that is more sparsely planted, will benefit from some kind of mulch. The mulch will keep weeds to a minimum and help retain moisture in the soil.
The aesthetics of the mulch are as important as the function. Your garden will look best with a finely textured material such as shredded leaves, dry grass clippings, peanut shells, cocoa hulls or shredded bark. Big chunks of bark, newspaper or straw will overpower your plants.
4. Neat Edges
A neat, cleanly defined edge between your lawn and flower bed will give your garden a professional look. You can achieve this in one of two ways: get a nice sharp edging tool and recut the edge several times during the growing season; or install some permanent edging. A defined edge will also help keep grass and weeds from growing into the bed.
5. Pinching
Some kinds of perennials, including asters, chrysanthemums, phlox and salvias, benefit from being pinched back. Pinching creates a bushier plant that produces more blooms and is less likely to flop over. Pinch back the growing tips--using thumb and forefinger--once or twice during late spring. Not all kinds of perennials should be pinched. If in doubt, pinch a little here and there, and see what happens.
6. Deadheading
Some plants drop their spent flowers and seed heads. Others hold onto them for months, or even right through the winter. Removing spent flowers will keep your plants looking their best, and it often stimulates reblooming. It also prevents plants from expending their energy on seed production. After bloom, some plants should be shorn rather than deadheaded. This is true for creeping phlox, nepeta, hardy geraniums, daisies, pinks and lavender.
7. Staking
Many tall or weak-stemmed plants need support when they reach blooming size. Delphiniums and hybrid lilies are two prime candidates. But other, shorter plants can also benefit from some kind of support. Supports should be as invisible as possible. For individual stems, you can use bamboo canes. For entire plants you can use wire support rings. For loose and airy plants, try using a few thin branches. For best results, put the supports into position in early spring. That way the plants will hide the supports as they grow.
8. Dividing
If your perennials are happy, most of them will need to be divided every few years. They may become too large for the space; the center or oldest part of the plant may die out leaving a bare middle; or the growth may become so dense that the plant is no longer blooming well.
Use a shovel to remove the entire plant from the garden and place the root ball on a tarp. Then you can either pry the plant into pieces using two forks, tease the pieces of the plant apart into different sections, or use a shovel or knife to cut the plant into several pieces. Plants should not be divided when they are in bloom or in full growth. In all but a few cases, this is a job for early spring or late fall.
Perennial Tips for the Ages
When planting a new perennial garden, prepare the soil well at the outset. That may be your only opportunity to loosen the soil, remove rocks, and add organic matter.
If you start plants by seed, put your first-year seedlings in a "nursery bed" rather than directly into your flower garden. They will not bloom or have much of a presence until their second year anyway, and a nursery bed will allow you to keep a better eye on their performance.
Most perennials should be divided in early spring when new growth is only a few inches high. If you miss your chance in the spring, wait until fall. Irises are the one major exception to this rule: they should be transplanted in early summer, right after they have bloomed.
Keep newly transplanted perennials well watered for the first few weeks. Water deeply to saturate the entire root ball and establish good contact between the roots and the surrounding soil.
Most perennials prefer a pH of about 6.5, although, some prefer more alkaline or acidic soil. If you have trouble with a particular plant, check its pH requirements and the pH level of the soil in your flower garden.
If your plants look stressed during the growing season, or if you see disease or insect damage, feed your plants with a quick-release organic fertilizer (try a blend of seaweed and fish emulsion).
All plants die eventually, and some will die sooner than others, no matter what you do about it. If a plant performs poorly, try moving it to a different location. If it still is not happy, give it away or send it to the compost pile.
When designing a perennial garden, think about how you'll get access to your plants to stake, deadhead, or divide them. Flat rocks can be used as stepping stones within the garden. A walkway created at the back of a border will be hidden during the growing season, but will make the bed accessible for spring and fall chores.
Reply:Yarrow is actually a roadside weed that's been hybridized for colors. I don't care for it. You can get perrenial wildflower mix at Wal-Mart for specific areas,ie, sunny, shady etc. To give it a good start, prepare the planting area with some good compost and soil.
do you plant many by throwing seeds out, just like you would for zinnias??
I am new to gardening.
Are most perennials very easy to plant?
Generally speaking, perennials are very easy to grow. I wouldn't just scatter the seeds without soil preparation first though. Make sure you have the taller ones to the back of the bed, medium height to the middle and smaller ones to the front. be careful with the colour schemes. Cooler colours i.e. Whites, Blues, Purples etc should be kept apart from Reds, Oranges and Pinks, although if you're clever, you can mix them without them looking messy. Plant the odd architectural plant here and there such as a Phormium or Cordyline and maybe a miniature Fruit Tree such as Cherry or Apple.
Reply:The Basics: Perennials
How to Design and Care for Perennial Gardens
For many gardeners, there's nothing like a full perennial border with a crisp edge of lawn.
Perennial plants are the backbone of nearly every flower garden. Unlike annual plants, which must be replanted each spring, herbaceous perennials die to the ground at the end of the season, and then regrow from the same roots the following year. People grow perennial flowers because they are such easy-care, dependable performers, and because they offer an enormous variety of color, texture and form. Here are the basics of garden design, plant selection and care.
The lifespan, bloom time, culture and form of perennial plants varies greatly. Some species, such as lupines and delphinium, are so called "short-lived" perennials, with a lifespan of just three or four years. Others may live as long as fifteen years, or even, in the case of peonies, a lifetime. Bloom time may last for only two weeks each year, or may extend over two or three months.
Some perennials, such as primroses, require deep humusy soil and plenty of shade, while others such as threadleaf coreopsis and cushion spurge wither away unless they grow in well-drained soil and full sun. Some perennials contain themselves in a nice, neat mound, while others, such as gooseneck loosestrife, will take over your entire garden. Some species should be cut back in midsummer, while others, such as hybrid lilies, may die if you remove their foliage.
There are so many different species and cultivars of perennial flowers to choose from that few people ever become completely familiar with all the options. For the perennial gardener, books are an invaluable resource. They provide photographs for identification (and inspiration!), cultural information, a description of growth habits, bloom time, color and characteristics of special cultivars. Invest in a good how-to book that has cultural information, and a color encyclopedia to help you identify plants and plan your selections.
What's in a Name?
It may be hard to believe, but scientific plant names are used to avoid confusion, not create it. They are developed by taxonomists to ensure that the same plant is called the same name throughout the world, regardless of language. Scientific plant names are usually a combination of Latin and Greek.
Common names, such as "bleeding heart," are often used to refer to all the plants in a genus and are useful unless you want to ensure you are purchasing a 24-inch high, spring-blooming bleeding heart (Dicentra spectabilis) rather than the ever-blooming species known as the fringed bleeding heart, which is only 12 inches high (Dicentra eximia). To learn more about botanical names, look for a copy of Gardener's Latin by Bill Neal (Algonquin Books, 1992).
Dicentra spectabilis 'Alba': (old-fashioned white bleeding heart)
Dicentra: The first name is the genus. It is always capitalized.
spectabilis: The second name is the species. It is not capitalized.
'Alba': The third name, which appears in single quotes, is the cultivar (cultivated variety).
Fellow gardeners are another great source of information about perennials. They can give you firsthand details about bloom time, height, hardiness and cultural requirements, and, if you visit their gardens, you can also see for yourself what the plants really look like up close. Nothing beats seeing a plant in a garden setting, where you can observe how it is being used. You may even go home with some pass-along plants for your own garden.
There's just no way to know how a plant will do for you unless you give it a try. If it turns out to be too tall, the color is wrong, or the plant doesn't thrive, you can always move it and try something different.
Perennial Planting Styles
Few if any "perennial gardens" contain only herbaceous perennials. Woody plants, such as shrubs, roses, and trees, are often incorporated to provide a backdrop for the perennial plants, or are used to fill in and give mass to the bed or border. Many gardeners include annuals or biennials in their perennial gardens to provide splashes of dependable color throughout the season. Bulbs are added for early spring color and ornamental grasses for their interesting textures and late-season beauty.
Traditionally, perennial gardens have been laid out in one of two ways: a border or an island bed. A border is typically a long, rectangular flower bed that is about two to four feet deep. The classic English perennial border, which was so popular in the first half of the 20th century, was often as much as eight feet deep and 200-feet long. But for most home gardeners, a better size is about three feet deep and about 12 to 15 feet long.
Borders are usually viewed from only one side, and are located in front of a backdrop. This backdrop may be created with shrubs, a hedge, a fence or a stone wall. A well-defined front edge is important. You may design a solo border, or a matched pair. When selecting plants, keep in mind that borders usually look best when there is a repeating theme of plants and colors.
An island bed is a garden that floats in a "sea" of lawn. The shape is irregular, with gentle curves and no sharp corners. It is usually designed to be viewed from all sides, with the tallest plants positioned along the center line of the bed, and the shortest plants around the edges. Island beds look best when they are generous in size. A good size for an island bed is 8-by-15 feet, with the tallest plants reaching a height of about five feet.
Of course perennial flower gardens sometimes look nothing like a traditional border or island bed. Rock gardens break all the rules, for the objective is usually to create an irregular, natural-looking rock outcropping where tiny alpine plants can be featured.
Shade gardens are often irregularly-shaped, because they follow the natural shade patterns of the trees above. Another emerging style for perennial gardens is the large, free-form garden. In this case, the garden is defined by a series of meandering paths that lead the viewer right into and then through the plantings. Perennial flowers can also be mixed in among shrubs, planted around your mailbox, used in woodland or streamside plantings, or even planted in containers.
Arranging Your Plants
The appearance of a perennial garden depends as much upon the shapes of your plants and how they are arranged, as upon their colors.
Height: You'll want to place the tallest plants in the back of the border, or in the center of an island bed, then work down in height, ending with the shortest plants around the edges of an island bed or the front of a border. Books and labels usually list the average mature height for a plant in bloom. Remember that many plants hold their flowers well above the foliage. This means that when the plant is out of bloom, it may be much shorter than the specified height.
Heights are also an average. When grown in poor, dry soil, a plant may be only half as tall as the same plant grown in rich, moist soil. Be prepared to move your plants around once you see how tall (or short) they really grow. Even the most experienced gardeners rearrange their plants (usually more than once!).
Width: A plant's width, or spread, is just as important as its height. Width figures given in books or on labels are also an average. The actual width of a plant will vary depending on soils, geographical location and the age of the plant. Be careful about locating slow-growers very close to rapid spreaders. The former may all but disappear by the end of the first growing season.
Spacing: Patience is a virtue, but when most people plant a perennial garden, their goal is to create a full effect as soon as possible. The challenge is to plant thickly, but not break the bank, or create a crowded, unhealthy situation two or three years down the line. When planting a grouping or "drift" of the same kind of plants, you can put them closer together to create a massed look more quickly.
Another trick is to place short-lived plants between slower-growing, long-lived plants. Most peonies, for example, have an ultimate spread of three feet, but it may take seven years for them to reach this size. While you're waiting, you could interplant with Shasta daisies, a fast-growing, short-lived plant that will provide a full look and plenty of flowers while the peonies get themselves established.
Drifts versus specimens: A garden planted with groupings of five or more plants of the same variety will display drifts of repeating colors and textures. In this type of garden, plants are used primarily as design elements that add up to a pleasing and integrated visual effect.
At the opposite end of the spectrum is the collector's garden, filled with onezies and twozies of all different kinds of plants. These are the gardens of people who simply love plants and want to have one of everything. The look of this type of garden may be a jumble of colors and textures, and maintenance is usually more challenging, but these gardens are about plants first, and design second.
How to Select Plants
When it comes to deciding which perennials to plant, most of us are not very deliberate about our choices. We succumb to a luscious photo in a catalog, stumble upon an irresistible beauty at the nursery, or a neighbor sends us home with a bag full of cast-offs. If you ever do set out to make an informed and deliberate choice, here are some of the things that you should think about.
Your site: Perennials, like all plants, will live longer and be healthier and more floriferous if they are planted in a location that suits them. Does your garden have sandy soil or is it heavy clay? Is it in the sun or shade? Is the soil moist or droughty? Is the pH high, low, or neutral? Is the site flat, gently sloped, or steep? A good reference book can help you figure out which plants will probably be happy in the growing conditions that you can provide.
Hardiness: If a plant is not hardy in your growing zone, it will not survive the winter. If you don't know which zone you live in, check a USDA Hardiness Zone Map. Though knowing your zone is very important, altitude, wind exposure, soils and snow cover can have a dramatic impact on plant hardiness, effectively shifting the hardiness rating for your garden by as much as a full zone.
For best results, choose plants that are well within your zone. You will probably be tempted by those that are at or even just beyond your growing zone. If you can afford to take the gamble (financially and emotionally), it can be very rewarding to discover that you can grow a couple of Zone 5 plants in your Zone 4 garden. Where snow cover is not dependable, a winter mulch of leaves or straw can help marginally hardy plants survive a cold winter. Well-drained soil is also a benefit. Heavy, wet soils will often heave and damage plant roots.
Northern gardeners concern themselves with the minimum temperatures that a plant will tolerate, but Southern gardeners must also pay attention to zone ratings. Many popular perennials, including lupines, peonies, and garden phlox, must be exposed to a period of subfreezing temperatures to produce a good display of flowers. Other perennials will simply not tolerate long periods of heat and humidity.
Color: In working with color, aim for a balance of integration and contrast. Too much of the same color can be monotonous, yet a cacophony of different colors can be jarring rather than pleasing to the eye. You may want to organize your garden around one color; or choose a theme such as pastels, cool colors, or hot colors. You can also experiment with different color themes in different parts of your garden—hot colors by the front door and cool colors in a quieter part of the yard.
Remember that few perennials are in bloom for more than a couple of weeks each year. Most of the time, plants are green, and it is their leaf form and foliage texture that are the "color" in your garden.
Bloom time: A perennial may be in bloom for two weeks a year or for as long as three months. If your objective is all-season color, choose several plants from each bloom season. When selecting plants for a spring garden, concentrate on those that bloom during April and May. After that peak, the garden may lack color for the rest of the season, but you will have achieved a spectacular spring display. For best effect, group at least two or three different varieties of plants together that will bloom at the same time.
Remember that specified bloom time is only an average. In California, April may be the peak bloom time for bearded iris, yet in Vermont, the same plant will not bloom until early June. Recording the bloom times of various perennials in your garden will become an invaluable reference. No book, no matter how good, will be as accurate as your own observations about when plants bloom and how they perform in your own garden.
Seedling, potted or field-grown: When purchasing perennials, try to get the largest, most mature plant that you can afford. The bigger the plant, the more quickly it will fill out and the sooner it will begin blooming. Typically plants are available in pot sizes ranging from 3-inch diameter to 12-inch diameter. Pot-grown perennials can be planted from spring through fall, and will suffer minimal transplant shock.
Some mail-order companies ship their plants bareroot (without soil). Bareroot perennials are usually available only in early spring when the plants are still dormant. The roots must be kept moist, and the plant should be put into the garden as soon as possible (within a couple of days). Once the plant is in the ground and has emerged from its dormant state, it will take hold relatively fast.
A few local nurseries still offer field-grown perennials. These plants are dug up when you come for them and they need to be transplanted immediately (within a few hours) to minimize transplant shock. Field-grown perennials are usually the largest and most mature plants around, but today most nurseries only offer container-grown perennials.
Vigor: Vigor can be good, but it can also create problems. Plants that are too vigorous can invade neighboring plants and gradually take over your entire garden. Determining a plant's propensity for invasiveness can be difficult, because poor growing conditions can render a normally invasive plant relatively tame, whereas in fertile soil, a normally restrained plant may exhibit invasive tendencies.
Look closely at plant descriptions and be wary of those described as "vigorous." This may be a euphemism for an invasive plant that you'll wish you never set eyes on. Perennials with a reputation for invasiveness include: bamboo, Macleaya cordata (plume poppy), Physostegia virginiana (obedient plant), Monarda (bee balm), Artemisia ludoviciana (Silver King artemisia), Lysimachia clethroides (gooseneck loosestrife), Tanacetum vulgare (tansy), Aegopodium (goutweed), and Boltonia asteroides.
Maintaining a Perennial Garden
Though most flowering perennials are dependable, easy-care performers, all perennial gardens require some maintenance. Here are the eight most important steps to ensure a healthy and floriferous garden:
1. Fertilizing
Most perennials are not heavy feeders and they will be happy with one spring application of a low-nitrogen, high-phosphorus fertilizer (5-10-5). For established plantings, scratch in a good handful of fertilizer around each plant. Annual or biennial applications of aged manure or finished compost will restore trace elements and improve soil texture and water retention.
2. Watering
A perennial garden does not require as much water as a vegetable garden. Depending on where you live, if you select plants suited to your site, and mulch them well, you may not need to water at all. If you live where summers are very dry and you do need to water, try to water deeply and avoid getting water on the foliage (soaker hoses and drip irrigation systems are great for perennial gardens).
3. Mulching
By early summer, a densely planted perennial garden will shade out most weeds. But a new garden, a spring garden or a garden that is more sparsely planted, will benefit from some kind of mulch. The mulch will keep weeds to a minimum and help retain moisture in the soil.
The aesthetics of the mulch are as important as the function. Your garden will look best with a finely textured material such as shredded leaves, dry grass clippings, peanut shells, cocoa hulls or shredded bark. Big chunks of bark, newspaper or straw will overpower your plants.
4. Neat Edges
A neat, cleanly defined edge between your lawn and flower bed will give your garden a professional look. You can achieve this in one of two ways: get a nice sharp edging tool and recut the edge several times during the growing season; or install some permanent edging. A defined edge will also help keep grass and weeds from growing into the bed.
5. Pinching
Some kinds of perennials, including asters, chrysanthemums, phlox and salvias, benefit from being pinched back. Pinching creates a bushier plant that produces more blooms and is less likely to flop over. Pinch back the growing tips--using thumb and forefinger--once or twice during late spring. Not all kinds of perennials should be pinched. If in doubt, pinch a little here and there, and see what happens.
6. Deadheading
Some plants drop their spent flowers and seed heads. Others hold onto them for months, or even right through the winter. Removing spent flowers will keep your plants looking their best, and it often stimulates reblooming. It also prevents plants from expending their energy on seed production. After bloom, some plants should be shorn rather than deadheaded. This is true for creeping phlox, nepeta, hardy geraniums, daisies, pinks and lavender.
7. Staking
Many tall or weak-stemmed plants need support when they reach blooming size. Delphiniums and hybrid lilies are two prime candidates. But other, shorter plants can also benefit from some kind of support. Supports should be as invisible as possible. For individual stems, you can use bamboo canes. For entire plants you can use wire support rings. For loose and airy plants, try using a few thin branches. For best results, put the supports into position in early spring. That way the plants will hide the supports as they grow.
8. Dividing
If your perennials are happy, most of them will need to be divided every few years. They may become too large for the space; the center or oldest part of the plant may die out leaving a bare middle; or the growth may become so dense that the plant is no longer blooming well.
Use a shovel to remove the entire plant from the garden and place the root ball on a tarp. Then you can either pry the plant into pieces using two forks, tease the pieces of the plant apart into different sections, or use a shovel or knife to cut the plant into several pieces. Plants should not be divided when they are in bloom or in full growth. In all but a few cases, this is a job for early spring or late fall.
Perennial Tips for the Ages
When planting a new perennial garden, prepare the soil well at the outset. That may be your only opportunity to loosen the soil, remove rocks, and add organic matter.
If you start plants by seed, put your first-year seedlings in a "nursery bed" rather than directly into your flower garden. They will not bloom or have much of a presence until their second year anyway, and a nursery bed will allow you to keep a better eye on their performance.
Most perennials should be divided in early spring when new growth is only a few inches high. If you miss your chance in the spring, wait until fall. Irises are the one major exception to this rule: they should be transplanted in early summer, right after they have bloomed.
Keep newly transplanted perennials well watered for the first few weeks. Water deeply to saturate the entire root ball and establish good contact between the roots and the surrounding soil.
Most perennials prefer a pH of about 6.5, although, some prefer more alkaline or acidic soil. If you have trouble with a particular plant, check its pH requirements and the pH level of the soil in your flower garden.
If your plants look stressed during the growing season, or if you see disease or insect damage, feed your plants with a quick-release organic fertilizer (try a blend of seaweed and fish emulsion).
All plants die eventually, and some will die sooner than others, no matter what you do about it. If a plant performs poorly, try moving it to a different location. If it still is not happy, give it away or send it to the compost pile.
When designing a perennial garden, think about how you'll get access to your plants to stake, deadhead, or divide them. Flat rocks can be used as stepping stones within the garden. A walkway created at the back of a border will be hidden during the growing season, but will make the bed accessible for spring and fall chores.
Reply:Yarrow is actually a roadside weed that's been hybridized for colors. I don't care for it. You can get perrenial wildflower mix at Wal-Mart for specific areas,ie, sunny, shady etc. To give it a good start, prepare the planting area with some good compost and soil.
Has anyone tried a rottatiller for gardening?
I"ve never used one, but was thinkin about renting one out.
don't want to get my back outta whack esp. since I just did that at work 2 wks. ago.
anyway, how easy is it to use one of these machines?
I plan to clear off a LARGE space in the yard %26amp; "hop to it", and get to work.
Hope it's not too late to plant stuff, like zinnia's, daliah's, day lillies,ect.
WOULD THIS MACHINE fit in a 4-door sedan w/the window rolled down?
please advice
thx
Has anyone tried a rottatiller for gardening?
would be easier than a hoe but you really need the grass gone before trying it yes they work great on dirt not so good on grass no not a tiler you would want to use call someone look in the phone book or ask around local gardenstores maybe you can find someone who can do it for you i thin it might be best so you dont til off a foot
Reply:I have.. it's a lot of work, but like an earlier answerer said, it's better than hoeing.
Get a rear-tined tiller.. they're much easier on the back.
and no.. it's not gonna fit in your car.. see if the rental agency would deliver it for you and maybe pick it up the next day.
Reply:rent one and rent a trailer to get it home. the rental agent will give you some tips on safety etc. Wear gloves for a good grip and glasses or goggles to protect your eyes. make sure there are NO underground electrical wires - call dig safe to be sure. Not to late to plant unless you live in Maine maybe
don't want to get my back outta whack esp. since I just did that at work 2 wks. ago.
anyway, how easy is it to use one of these machines?
I plan to clear off a LARGE space in the yard %26amp; "hop to it", and get to work.
Hope it's not too late to plant stuff, like zinnia's, daliah's, day lillies,ect.
WOULD THIS MACHINE fit in a 4-door sedan w/the window rolled down?
please advice
thx
Has anyone tried a rottatiller for gardening?
would be easier than a hoe but you really need the grass gone before trying it yes they work great on dirt not so good on grass no not a tiler you would want to use call someone look in the phone book or ask around local gardenstores maybe you can find someone who can do it for you i thin it might be best so you dont til off a foot
Reply:I have.. it's a lot of work, but like an earlier answerer said, it's better than hoeing.
Get a rear-tined tiller.. they're much easier on the back.
and no.. it's not gonna fit in your car.. see if the rental agency would deliver it for you and maybe pick it up the next day.
Reply:rent one and rent a trailer to get it home. the rental agent will give you some tips on safety etc. Wear gloves for a good grip and glasses or goggles to protect your eyes. make sure there are NO underground electrical wires - call dig safe to be sure. Not to late to plant unless you live in Maine maybe
I planted sine zinnias in my garden, and i have to cut off dead ones. do i cut the stem or just the flower?
it said to cut off the dead ones on the seed package, and this is my first time planting
GO BEARS !!!!!
I planted sine zinnias in my garden, and i have to cut off dead ones. do i cut the stem or just the flower?
Just pop the dead head off...dont cut the stem. You can save the heads and just sprinkle them on the ground next year and you'll have zinnas again. They are excellent plants for the full hot sun...dont water them on their leaves tho it causes water spots. Water in the late evening. And only when they appear wilted...When you just remove the dead head it makes the plant bush out instead of removing the steam and all that makes it leggy.
Reply:Cut of the dead flower. This is called dead heading. Carefully look down the stem. Sometimes there is another small bud for another flower forming. You cut the stem just above that new bud.
Reply:you cut the stem its to stop the plant going to seed too soon
it will carry on flowering for a while longer
Reply:on mine i cut the stems.
running shoes
GO BEARS !!!!!
I planted sine zinnias in my garden, and i have to cut off dead ones. do i cut the stem or just the flower?
Just pop the dead head off...dont cut the stem. You can save the heads and just sprinkle them on the ground next year and you'll have zinnas again. They are excellent plants for the full hot sun...dont water them on their leaves tho it causes water spots. Water in the late evening. And only when they appear wilted...When you just remove the dead head it makes the plant bush out instead of removing the steam and all that makes it leggy.
Reply:Cut of the dead flower. This is called dead heading. Carefully look down the stem. Sometimes there is another small bud for another flower forming. You cut the stem just above that new bud.
Reply:you cut the stem its to stop the plant going to seed too soon
it will carry on flowering for a while longer
Reply:on mine i cut the stems.
running shoes
Zinnias Why are they dying?
I bought Zinnias this spring and put some in garden and some in pots. I have watered them consistently and fertilized them as well but they are slowly dying. I have them in sunny places. Any one have any clues as to where I may have gone wrong?
Zinnias Why are they dying?
Mine started dying off... My Mom told me to pluck off the dead head of the flower. I did and about a week later, I had fresh new blooms. Try it!
And as far as where they are- Zinnias LOVE the sun. They just happen to have a short span where they remain lush.
Reply:too much water? are the leaves yellow?
too hot? are the leaves curled?
to much fertilizer? have they just lived out theri growing cycle?
sorry those are my best guesses
Reply:Have they already flowered and gone to seed? Some zinnias are annual and die as a natural part of their growth cycle.
How are they dying? Wilting? Turning yellow and then brown? Any evidence of pests?
Zinnias Why are they dying?
Mine started dying off... My Mom told me to pluck off the dead head of the flower. I did and about a week later, I had fresh new blooms. Try it!
And as far as where they are- Zinnias LOVE the sun. They just happen to have a short span where they remain lush.
Reply:too much water? are the leaves yellow?
too hot? are the leaves curled?
to much fertilizer? have they just lived out theri growing cycle?
sorry those are my best guesses
Reply:Have they already flowered and gone to seed? Some zinnias are annual and die as a natural part of their growth cycle.
How are they dying? Wilting? Turning yellow and then brown? Any evidence of pests?
Last year I grew Canterbury Bells from seed, this year they hve flowered beautifully. Now they're beginning to
fade. My question is - what do I need to do with biennials so that they'll come back next year? I'd like to cut them down so my zinnias will take over, but I want to make sure they have a chance to reseed. Many thanks!
Last year I grew Canterbury Bells from seed, this year they hve flowered beautifully. Now they're beginning to
I would wait a little for the seed pods to ripen and then cut them off and put them in a paper bag, to allow the pods to split and disgorge the seed. Then sow them in the fall after the zinnias have had their day.
nfd♥
Reply:Biennial by definition basically means only flowering every other year. If you planted one that has flowered this year, you should plant another one next year. This way you will always have one blooming. I do this with all of my biennial's.
I would suggest that you save the seed or just plant your Zinnia's in front of the Canterbury Bells to let them self-seed. Also, you should avoid cutting back the fading foliage of your Canterbury Bells because this is where "fuel" is stored that the plants use to properly overwinter %26amp; give you better growth %26amp; flower production the year after next.
I hope this information helps!
Warm Blessings,
Sheilia
Last year I grew Canterbury Bells from seed, this year they hve flowered beautifully. Now they're beginning to
I would wait a little for the seed pods to ripen and then cut them off and put them in a paper bag, to allow the pods to split and disgorge the seed. Then sow them in the fall after the zinnias have had their day.
nfd♥
Reply:Biennial by definition basically means only flowering every other year. If you planted one that has flowered this year, you should plant another one next year. This way you will always have one blooming. I do this with all of my biennial's.
I would suggest that you save the seed or just plant your Zinnia's in front of the Canterbury Bells to let them self-seed. Also, you should avoid cutting back the fading foliage of your Canterbury Bells because this is where "fuel" is stored that the plants use to properly overwinter %26amp; give you better growth %26amp; flower production the year after next.
I hope this information helps!
Warm Blessings,
Sheilia
Which yellow cut flowers last longer?
I work for a store and yellow and white are the company colors we use cut flowers but end up buying them sometimes 2x-3x a week and I wanted to know what yellow and/or white flowers except roses (the owner doesn't like roses) last longer and stay pretty longer. We've found hydengea last a long time but zinnias droop shortly after buying them. Also flowers that are readily availible at flower markets would be good. Any advice would be helpful.
Which yellow cut flowers last longer?
Hmm. I think water plants live longer as cut flowers. Could you try a Yellow Flag Iris?
Here are some pictures:
http://images.google.co.uk/images?source...
Which yellow cut flowers last longer?
Hmm. I think water plants live longer as cut flowers. Could you try a Yellow Flag Iris?
Here are some pictures:
http://images.google.co.uk/images?source...
What can I do to keep my zinnias looking good?
Deadhead: Like most annuals, zinnias grow fast during their one-season life, and are trying to set seed. The way to get them to keep flowering is to frustrate their attempts to set seed. Do this by keeping all the old flowers clipped off once they get scruffy looking. Clip about a quarter to half inch above a leaf. Look for a leaf where you see a little cluster of leaves forming between the leaf and the stem, or where there's already a side branch forming. That way you won't have little ugly stubs poking up all over.
Fertilize: Keep your zinnias and all annuals very well fed over their summer. I would feed every week with something like Peter's in your watering can, sprinkled over the leaves. You can also use a longer-acting food in the soil when you plant them, or scratch it into the soil now if you forgot. Use a good all-around fertilizer with the middle number higher; the three numbers are N-P-K amounts. P = phosphorous = what makes more flowers. So a 5-10-5 fertilizer would be great.
Watering: Zinnias originate in Mexico, where it's hot/dry. So water only when it's gotten fairly dry and do not let them get waterlogged. If it hasn't rained, watering every third day should do fine.
What can I do to keep my zinnias looking good?
pinch back the dead ones. Don't over water them. Zinnias don't like "wet feet" .
Reply:They make good cut flowers in the house, they last a long time, and cutting a few will also help them bloom more. It's true they don't like to be too wet but they will also stop blooming if they get too dry.
riding boots
Fertilize: Keep your zinnias and all annuals very well fed over their summer. I would feed every week with something like Peter's in your watering can, sprinkled over the leaves. You can also use a longer-acting food in the soil when you plant them, or scratch it into the soil now if you forgot. Use a good all-around fertilizer with the middle number higher; the three numbers are N-P-K amounts. P = phosphorous = what makes more flowers. So a 5-10-5 fertilizer would be great.
Watering: Zinnias originate in Mexico, where it's hot/dry. So water only when it's gotten fairly dry and do not let them get waterlogged. If it hasn't rained, watering every third day should do fine.
What can I do to keep my zinnias looking good?
pinch back the dead ones. Don't over water them. Zinnias don't like "wet feet" .
Reply:They make good cut flowers in the house, they last a long time, and cutting a few will also help them bloom more. It's true they don't like to be too wet but they will also stop blooming if they get too dry.
riding boots
What's the best fertilizer for flowers and for Ivy?
And also I need to know what the best kind of bug spray there is for my flowers. My petunias are half eaten and covered in holes... I think they're those pincher bugs, my zinnias leafs are covered in tiny holes to the point where the whole leaf is translucent. My grandpa fertilizes his flowers twice a week, even though it's only suppose to be once a week, and they're fabulous. I don't know what he uses though. Does anyone know any little tricks like that, as well?
What's the best fertilizer for flowers and for Ivy?
the best fertilizer would be a scoop or two from a compost pile. It works great and it's all organic. As far as bugs, take a spray bottle and put some regular dish soap in it and fill it with water ... misting the plants will keep the bugs away.
Reply:" Miracle Grow" plant food is the best I've ever used. Just follow the package instructions for great results. I would contact a local florist to find out what bug repellant to use on your particular plants.
Reply:Let you know a little secret. Have you ever seen roses as bis as a basketball? The best fertilizer for flowers is..........Bat guano, available at any good nursery, very expensive.
Reply:Osmocote for flowers and bedding plants
Reply:get the book "extraordinary uses for ordinary things" i have it and its great.
Reply:5 gal bucket 1/2 full of water.. Every meal take all left overs you would heave. put them in blender, blend rear fine then dump in bucket.. have good lid it will stink..Me I have a 55gal drumb full.. Called FORCE FEEDING.. Best fertilizer I've ever seen and sure does make things grow.. Once a week I use it on both flowers and garden.. people always ask how do I always have such good luck.. THATS HOW.. Ask Grandpa, bet hes done it... Good Luck your friend here in Tennessee... ROB
Reply:mink manure
Reply:bloom
What's the best fertilizer for flowers and for Ivy?
the best fertilizer would be a scoop or two from a compost pile. It works great and it's all organic. As far as bugs, take a spray bottle and put some regular dish soap in it and fill it with water ... misting the plants will keep the bugs away.
Reply:" Miracle Grow" plant food is the best I've ever used. Just follow the package instructions for great results. I would contact a local florist to find out what bug repellant to use on your particular plants.
Reply:Let you know a little secret. Have you ever seen roses as bis as a basketball? The best fertilizer for flowers is..........Bat guano, available at any good nursery, very expensive.
Reply:Osmocote for flowers and bedding plants
Reply:get the book "extraordinary uses for ordinary things" i have it and its great.
Reply:5 gal bucket 1/2 full of water.. Every meal take all left overs you would heave. put them in blender, blend rear fine then dump in bucket.. have good lid it will stink..Me I have a 55gal drumb full.. Called FORCE FEEDING.. Best fertilizer I've ever seen and sure does make things grow.. Once a week I use it on both flowers and garden.. people always ask how do I always have such good luck.. THATS HOW.. Ask Grandpa, bet hes done it... Good Luck your friend here in Tennessee... ROB
Reply:mink manure
Reply:bloom
How many months does it take for zinnias to flower from the time it is started from seed??
i'm trying to grow flowers for the first time ,and under what conditions do zinnias flower ...i have the seed of a variety called polynesian zinnia and it says' best for tropics' on the seed packet,i live in the middle east.
How many months does it take for zinnias to flower from the time it is started from seed??
i started zinnias from seed in may and they bloomed in june. it depends on the amount of rain and how hot it is -- both when you plant the seeds and while they are growing. good luck!
Reply:I started my zinnias in June and they have flower on them now. They have had flower on them for at lest two weeks.
Reply:I started mine from seed in the spring and I can't remember for sure, but they were flowering before it was time to put them outside, so I think maybe two months. I used fluorescent lights to get them to grow and they did great. I haven't grown a Polynesian variety though.
How many months does it take for zinnias to flower from the time it is started from seed??
i started zinnias from seed in may and they bloomed in june. it depends on the amount of rain and how hot it is -- both when you plant the seeds and while they are growing. good luck!
Reply:I started my zinnias in June and they have flower on them now. They have had flower on them for at lest two weeks.
Reply:I started mine from seed in the spring and I can't remember for sure, but they were flowering before it was time to put them outside, so I think maybe two months. I used fluorescent lights to get them to grow and they did great. I haven't grown a Polynesian variety though.
I was growing some Zinnias and a storm came that killed them, I wanted to know if there was anyway to revive.?
They are in a pot.
The flowers were healthy before, and the stalk still is, but the flowers look a bit repairable.
I was growing some Zinnias and a storm came that killed them, I wanted to know if there was anyway to revive.?
cut them down to 3 inches high and cut off all the beat down branches. They will grow back healthy and beautiful.
The flowers were healthy before, and the stalk still is, but the flowers look a bit repairable.
I was growing some Zinnias and a storm came that killed them, I wanted to know if there was anyway to revive.?
cut them down to 3 inches high and cut off all the beat down branches. They will grow back healthy and beautiful.
After I line my garden w/NEWSPAPER to prevent weeds WHAT/How do I LAYER soil & mulch exactly?
Do I cover w/plenty of bark mulch, then top it off w/black top soil? Then go for planting my bulbs?
Never blocked weeds b4 now :o)
And I have so many to plant too; dahlia's, common day lilies, giant zinnia's, more bulbs, ect of various types
After I line my garden w/NEWSPAPER to prevent weeds WHAT/How do I LAYER soil %26amp; mulch exactly?
Before planting anything, prepare your garden bed and if that includes adding compost to improve the soil quality and/or topsoil, do it now. A raised bed is better for the plants as it provides better drainage and soil warms faster. Next plant your bulbs, tubers, corms, whatever, first, and mark them with a small stick, chopstick, plant marker - so you know where they are. Then put in the various plants. Now comes the layer of newspaper for the weed barrier. Lay your 8-10 layers, making sure you arrange around the plants and leave openings for your bulbs and such to come through (remove the sticks once you are done). Water and lastly cover with your mulch of choice. The mulch holds the papers in place, keeps the moisture in and decreases evaporation which both help reduce watering needs. Plus, it looks nice! If you use bark mulch, spread it 2-4 inches deep. Now step back and admire your work and look forward to a beautiful garden with much less work needed to keep it up. A little side hint - if you are planting any bulbs, tubers, etc. that you know will require staking at some time, put the stake in with the planting.This way you can place it with your plant material in sight and erase the possibility of damaging it later with a blind stab of the stake.
Reply:Mulch on top.. then newspaper, then soil below the paper. Plant in the soil, through the paper and into the soil.
Reply:You should go to www.1800TOPSOIL.com and click on "calculator" to figure that out. But if you really want your flowers to thrive, get some good quality potting soil. It's loaded with nutrients and actually time-releases water and nutrients to your plants/flowers to make sure they get what they need when they need it. Good luck!
my rodents
Never blocked weeds b4 now :o)
And I have so many to plant too; dahlia's, common day lilies, giant zinnia's, more bulbs, ect of various types
After I line my garden w/NEWSPAPER to prevent weeds WHAT/How do I LAYER soil %26amp; mulch exactly?
Before planting anything, prepare your garden bed and if that includes adding compost to improve the soil quality and/or topsoil, do it now. A raised bed is better for the plants as it provides better drainage and soil warms faster. Next plant your bulbs, tubers, corms, whatever, first, and mark them with a small stick, chopstick, plant marker - so you know where they are. Then put in the various plants. Now comes the layer of newspaper for the weed barrier. Lay your 8-10 layers, making sure you arrange around the plants and leave openings for your bulbs and such to come through (remove the sticks once you are done). Water and lastly cover with your mulch of choice. The mulch holds the papers in place, keeps the moisture in and decreases evaporation which both help reduce watering needs. Plus, it looks nice! If you use bark mulch, spread it 2-4 inches deep. Now step back and admire your work and look forward to a beautiful garden with much less work needed to keep it up. A little side hint - if you are planting any bulbs, tubers, etc. that you know will require staking at some time, put the stake in with the planting.This way you can place it with your plant material in sight and erase the possibility of damaging it later with a blind stab of the stake.
Reply:Mulch on top.. then newspaper, then soil below the paper. Plant in the soil, through the paper and into the soil.
Reply:You should go to www.1800TOPSOIL.com and click on "calculator" to figure that out. But if you really want your flowers to thrive, get some good quality potting soil. It's loaded with nutrients and actually time-releases water and nutrients to your plants/flowers to make sure they get what they need when they need it. Good luck!
my rodents
Zinnia Harriet? Harriet Zinnia? Zinnia Harriet Claire?
Feelings on these names?
Zinnia Harriet? Harriet Zinnia? Zinnia Harriet Claire?
I LOVE the name Zinnia! How pretty! Putting in my 2 cents I would choose Zinnia Claire
Reply:Forget outdated or not. I think they sound good in this order
Claire Zinnia Harriet or just Claire Zinnia
it rolls off the tongue.
Reply:I like Zinnia Clarie
Not a fan of the other one
Reply:Anything with the name Zinnia in it is gross!
Reply:I do not like them
Reply:Harriet and Zinnia= ewwwwwww!!
Claire= cuteee!!
Reply:Are you sure you want to use a flower name? It's not really that pretty sounding. Is there another flower you could use? I don't think your daughter would have a good time in school with the name Zinnia or Harriet. Claire is okay, but it is getting extremely trendy right now, and from the other names you picked, it seems like you're not into trendy names.
Good luck.
Reply:I like Zinnia Harriet the best!!! I also like the third one but it is long!!!! I have not ever really liked the name Harriet but congrats on the girl i believe!
Reply:D) None of the above
Reply:Way outdated names!!! In my opinion they are all very hideous!
Reply:Zinnia is pretty and so is claire, not a big fan of Harriet though. Zinnia Claire?
Reply:Zinnia Claire would be my pick! Or Claire Zinnia! Good luck!
Reply:i like claire the best.
Reply:Claire Zinnia
Reply:They all sound like dominatrix names
Reply:Claire Zinnia
Reply:I love Zinnia Claire..unless Harriet means something special, then by all means include it! I named my daughter a name that was pretty much unheard of years ago, now a major star has her name, and so do alot of kids!! Names come and go, make sure it means something to you!
Reply:Claire is pretty. Zinnia isn't too pretty.
Claire Zinnia
Claire Harriet
Reply:i would not name my kids that but if you want to go ahead
Reply:Zinnia Claire
Zinnia Harriet? Harriet Zinnia? Zinnia Harriet Claire?
I LOVE the name Zinnia! How pretty! Putting in my 2 cents I would choose Zinnia Claire
Reply:Forget outdated or not. I think they sound good in this order
Claire Zinnia Harriet or just Claire Zinnia
it rolls off the tongue.
Reply:I like Zinnia Clarie
Not a fan of the other one
Reply:Anything with the name Zinnia in it is gross!
Reply:I do not like them
Reply:Harriet and Zinnia= ewwwwwww!!
Claire= cuteee!!
Reply:Are you sure you want to use a flower name? It's not really that pretty sounding. Is there another flower you could use? I don't think your daughter would have a good time in school with the name Zinnia or Harriet. Claire is okay, but it is getting extremely trendy right now, and from the other names you picked, it seems like you're not into trendy names.
Good luck.
Reply:I like Zinnia Harriet the best!!! I also like the third one but it is long!!!! I have not ever really liked the name Harriet but congrats on the girl i believe!
Reply:D) None of the above
Reply:Way outdated names!!! In my opinion they are all very hideous!
Reply:Zinnia is pretty and so is claire, not a big fan of Harriet though. Zinnia Claire?
Reply:Zinnia Claire would be my pick! Or Claire Zinnia! Good luck!
Reply:i like claire the best.
Reply:Claire Zinnia
Reply:They all sound like dominatrix names
Reply:Claire Zinnia
Reply:I love Zinnia Claire..unless Harriet means something special, then by all means include it! I named my daughter a name that was pretty much unheard of years ago, now a major star has her name, and so do alot of kids!! Names come and go, make sure it means something to you!
Reply:Claire is pretty. Zinnia isn't too pretty.
Claire Zinnia
Claire Harriet
Reply:i would not name my kids that but if you want to go ahead
Reply:Zinnia Claire
Starting dwarf zinnias from seed?
How long after the cotyledons emerge do the true leaves appear? It's been over a week, and the stems appear long and stringy, about 1.5 inches. No signs of true leaves yet.
Using Gro-lux lights.
Starting dwarf zinnias from seed?
I have a lot better luck starting zinnias outside. Just put them out in freshly turned soil and barely cover with dirt. I usually start them in late April after the last frost date. Your lights may be too far from the seedlings causing them to stretch. I have read they need to be no farther than 2 inches from the seedlings.
Using Gro-lux lights.
Starting dwarf zinnias from seed?
I have a lot better luck starting zinnias outside. Just put them out in freshly turned soil and barely cover with dirt. I usually start them in late April after the last frost date. Your lights may be too far from the seedlings causing them to stretch. I have read they need to be no farther than 2 inches from the seedlings.
One more time. Looking for flowers sold in a box with seeds, sand, fertilizer etc. Just the name of the maker
Found them at walmart last year, they had pansy's, zinnia's, marigold's, cosmos. About $7 a box and they work great. I could order online if I could just get the name of the company that makes them!
One more time. Looking for flowers sold in a box with seeds, sand, fertilizer etc. Just the name of the maker
I bought a couple of those big seed boxes at Walmart a couple of days ago. One from Plantation Products, and one from American Seed. Both of them are from Norton, MA. Hopes this helps!
One more time. Looking for flowers sold in a box with seeds, sand, fertilizer etc. Just the name of the maker
I bought a couple of those big seed boxes at Walmart a couple of days ago. One from Plantation Products, and one from American Seed. Both of them are from Norton, MA. Hopes this helps!
Can anyone tell me when to plant these seeds?
I just recieved a bunch of seeds from a lady that was giving them away. They are not in a official package, they just have their names. I live in zone 6 and i need to know which seeds i should plant indoors. Or which ones i can plant indoors, because i prefer to transfer my seeds from inside. Also i want to know any tips on these plants and what month to plant them. Thank you so much!!!
1. Lychnis Coronaria (Abottswood Rose)
2. Talinum (Jewels of Opar)
3. Hibiscus Manihot (Sunset Hibiscus)
4. Hibiscus Trionum
5. Mexican Hats
6. Zinnia Candy cane
7. Hedeoma Acimiodes (Texas Pennyroyal)
8. Lantana Camara
Can anyone tell me when to plant these seeds?
just make sure that all danger of frost has passed before you plant wherever zone 6 is
Reply:After the last frost.
Reply:plant em memorial day weekend
poison ivy
1. Lychnis Coronaria (Abottswood Rose)
2. Talinum (Jewels of Opar)
3. Hibiscus Manihot (Sunset Hibiscus)
4. Hibiscus Trionum
5. Mexican Hats
6. Zinnia Candy cane
7. Hedeoma Acimiodes (Texas Pennyroyal)
8. Lantana Camara
Can anyone tell me when to plant these seeds?
just make sure that all danger of frost has passed before you plant wherever zone 6 is
Reply:After the last frost.
Reply:plant em memorial day weekend
poison ivy
Cross breeding flowers of the same family?
how would i cross breed a starlight zinnia and any magnolia?
can i do that with any flower?
or does it have to be within in the same family?
Cross breeding flowers of the same family?
Although some plants can hybridize, it's typically most likely between congeneric species i.e., two species that belong to the same genus. Getting two species that belong to different families to successfully hybridize is highly unlikely in the vast majority of species. In your case, Magnoliaceae and Asteraceae are very distantly related families, further reducing those odds.
To read about hand pollination (of related species), try visiting: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hand_pollin...
can i do that with any flower?
or does it have to be within in the same family?
Cross breeding flowers of the same family?
Although some plants can hybridize, it's typically most likely between congeneric species i.e., two species that belong to the same genus. Getting two species that belong to different families to successfully hybridize is highly unlikely in the vast majority of species. In your case, Magnoliaceae and Asteraceae are very distantly related families, further reducing those odds.
To read about hand pollination (of related species), try visiting: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hand_pollin...
What is the best way to sow flowers inside, so you can plant them out in the summer?
Next year, I'm planting LOADS of flowers, I'm planting them all around my open field near the trees. I'll probably be sowing about 1500 seeds indoors. A lot of the seeds are Annual Foxglove, Hollyhocks, Columbine, Snapdragon, Balloon Flowers, Zinnias, Penstemon, and many more, that I've forgotten. Which is the best, and healthiest way to grow them inside? I was thinking of getting these things called "biodomes" where it can fit 60 seeds, but i would need to many. I might be getting a mini green house thing for indoors, which has floresent lights, and about 4 rows of soil. What is the best way? Any suggections or advice on any of these plants or on sowing them inside? I live in ontario, canada, zone 5, and i will be sowing them side Anyway from Janruary to April. Thanks:D
What is the best way to sow flowers inside, so you can plant them out in the summer?
Wow, that's an awful lot of seeds Dan. First of all you are going to need a place with a bright light source that will reach all those seedlings. I would guess that the mini greenhouses with florescent lights would be best, but you might need more that one for 1500 seeds. If you have a spare room you could set up some tables and place florescent fixtures with one cool and once warm florescent bulb in each above each table. Make it so the fixtures can be raised and lowered because they will need to be no more than 3 inches above the seedlings at all times. This is how I do it for my seedling, but I only start a few hundred indoors. Anyhow, you can get some seedling flats from garden centers, fill with starting soil and plant away or you can get peat cells, but 1500 can get pretty pricey. You said that you would be starting the seeds in January, but that will be too early. You only need to start the seed 6-8 weeks before your last frost. Start them any earlier then you will be looking at leggy plants that will suffer more stress when planted outside. Besides, the older they get the harder they are to keep alive indoors. Well, I hope this helped some.
Good luck
What is the best way to sow flowers inside, so you can plant them out in the summer?
Wow, that's an awful lot of seeds Dan. First of all you are going to need a place with a bright light source that will reach all those seedlings. I would guess that the mini greenhouses with florescent lights would be best, but you might need more that one for 1500 seeds. If you have a spare room you could set up some tables and place florescent fixtures with one cool and once warm florescent bulb in each above each table. Make it so the fixtures can be raised and lowered because they will need to be no more than 3 inches above the seedlings at all times. This is how I do it for my seedling, but I only start a few hundred indoors. Anyhow, you can get some seedling flats from garden centers, fill with starting soil and plant away or you can get peat cells, but 1500 can get pretty pricey. You said that you would be starting the seeds in January, but that will be too early. You only need to start the seed 6-8 weeks before your last frost. Start them any earlier then you will be looking at leggy plants that will suffer more stress when planted outside. Besides, the older they get the harder they are to keep alive indoors. Well, I hope this helped some.
Good luck
Growing plants from seeds; first setback, what should I do?
So I used one of those Jiffy mini-greenhouses to start seeds about one and a half weeks ago. Zinnias and some Purple Millet were the first to sprout. And today, temps hit around 90, and when I got home, those seedlings were yellow and wilted. Guess they were just overwhelmed completely. I fear I not only lost them, but the many with longer germination time as well. Am I completely "screwed"? Advice? I've already removed the lid and moved the entire tray to the side of the house that only gets partial day's sun, as opposed to full a full day where they were. Will the other seeds be okay; do I start all over? I think I just nearly experienced what it's like to be heartbroken, because I am worried I'll have nothing to show for my work... and have a lot of dirt in my yard this summer. Advice, thoughts, etc. would be most appreciated.
Growing plants from seeds; first setback, what should I do?
yeah sound like they got to much sun .i would wait a week to see if any new seeds sprout if not .its back to the store to start all over sorry hope u do better next time
Reply:Don't worry you can try again. Suggestion, grow them indoors when the weather is suppose to get that hot (Baring you have AC?). Keep the mini Green house in a room that gets lots of natural light but cool temps NOTHING over 70. Water as needed only! Too much water can kill as easy as Baking. Then if and when the temps cool down some slowly get them use to the outdoors a half hour at a time couple times aday if possible; until they can care for themselves on their own. If you still want some good show flowers buy some perennials that come back every just to fill in spots.
Reply:I have never used a mini greenhouse to plant gerneral flower seeds, I have always planted them and left them outside. I think you may have killed them with too much humidity and not enough air. They need the air circulation or they die from molds. I think you baked them. Start over, Zinnias start in about three days, and come up easy. Don't give up see what the other do before throwing away the soil. If you weather is settled you may plant them in open run. They Cosomos, try nasturums, and Straw flowers, a few Sun flowers would also be fun. Marigold are also easy, just scratch up your soil, and broadcast the seed, and the final touch would be a seed cover, a soil mixture made for this purpose. Water in and until they all grerminate keep the soil moist, don't let them dry out. May you have a beautiful garden with lots of flowers to cut for your home. Hoyakins.
Growing plants from seeds; first setback, what should I do?
yeah sound like they got to much sun .i would wait a week to see if any new seeds sprout if not .its back to the store to start all over sorry hope u do better next time
Reply:Don't worry you can try again. Suggestion, grow them indoors when the weather is suppose to get that hot (Baring you have AC?). Keep the mini Green house in a room that gets lots of natural light but cool temps NOTHING over 70. Water as needed only! Too much water can kill as easy as Baking. Then if and when the temps cool down some slowly get them use to the outdoors a half hour at a time couple times aday if possible; until they can care for themselves on their own. If you still want some good show flowers buy some perennials that come back every just to fill in spots.
Reply:I have never used a mini greenhouse to plant gerneral flower seeds, I have always planted them and left them outside. I think you may have killed them with too much humidity and not enough air. They need the air circulation or they die from molds. I think you baked them. Start over, Zinnias start in about three days, and come up easy. Don't give up see what the other do before throwing away the soil. If you weather is settled you may plant them in open run. They Cosomos, try nasturums, and Straw flowers, a few Sun flowers would also be fun. Marigold are also easy, just scratch up your soil, and broadcast the seed, and the final touch would be a seed cover, a soil mixture made for this purpose. Water in and until they all grerminate keep the soil moist, don't let them dry out. May you have a beautiful garden with lots of flowers to cut for your home. Hoyakins.
Can you make most package seeds germinate MORE quickly by placing them on a warm moist paper towel?
I'm growing some easy one's as don't have time unfortunately to tend a garden all season:
zinnia's,Felicia[bergeriana], Lupine[russell mixed], sweet peas[blue ripple]
are the sweet peas and Lupine, Felicia all very easy to grow?
Can you make most package seeds germinate MORE quickly by placing them on a warm moist paper towel?
Buy covered peat pots at the local nursery. (they were right next to the seeds when you bought them) Follow instructions.
Reply:I'd say place a paper towel inside a glass jar up against the glass all around. Then put some water in the jar. The paper towel should soak up the water and moisten the entire towel. Then place the seeds between the paper towel and glass jar. You should be able to see them germinate.
Reply:Put the seeds in water for a day or two. The paper towel works also but you do have to make sure it is kept moist.
Reply:This is possible but risky. If they dry out they may die quite quickly.
Reply:don't use the wet towel trick! use this.. get a cup, put some luke warm water in it and pour the seeds in it and let em soak for at least 18 to 24 hours then put em the ground and by the next day they'll be sprouting! cover the cup if u wish!
shoes stock
zinnia's,Felicia[bergeriana], Lupine[russell mixed], sweet peas[blue ripple]
are the sweet peas and Lupine, Felicia all very easy to grow?
Can you make most package seeds germinate MORE quickly by placing them on a warm moist paper towel?
Buy covered peat pots at the local nursery. (they were right next to the seeds when you bought them) Follow instructions.
Reply:I'd say place a paper towel inside a glass jar up against the glass all around. Then put some water in the jar. The paper towel should soak up the water and moisten the entire towel. Then place the seeds between the paper towel and glass jar. You should be able to see them germinate.
Reply:Put the seeds in water for a day or two. The paper towel works also but you do have to make sure it is kept moist.
Reply:This is possible but risky. If they dry out they may die quite quickly.
Reply:don't use the wet towel trick! use this.. get a cup, put some luke warm water in it and pour the seeds in it and let em soak for at least 18 to 24 hours then put em the ground and by the next day they'll be sprouting! cover the cup if u wish!
shoes stock
What are some edible flowers I can plant? And which parts of the plants?
This is my first year planting a garden and I want to know if some of the flowers I am planting are edible, and, if so, which parts. I am planting Marigolds, Sunflowers, and Zinnias right now, but I can always plant more. Please be specific with which parts I can and cannot eat
What are some edible flowers I can plant? And which parts of the plants?
oliander, no, wait, I think thats deadly, don't eat it.
Reply:Almost all herbs - chives, sage, thyme, sweet woodruff, basil, dill, cilantro, dandelions, all parts of these are edible, and depending what zone you live in, these are either perennial or will reseed themselves - so you'll have them back every year!
Reply:Most lilies including tiger lilies and day lilies have edible petals.
Mint also has edible leaves and they grow very fast, they take over gardens quickly. Sage, Thyme, Oregano and Basil are other popular herbs with edible leaves. Happy planting!
Reply:nasturtiums for one~whole plant
http://whatscookingamerica.net/EdibleFlo...
What are some edible flowers I can plant? And which parts of the plants?
oliander, no, wait, I think thats deadly, don't eat it.
Reply:Almost all herbs - chives, sage, thyme, sweet woodruff, basil, dill, cilantro, dandelions, all parts of these are edible, and depending what zone you live in, these are either perennial or will reseed themselves - so you'll have them back every year!
Reply:Most lilies including tiger lilies and day lilies have edible petals.
Mint also has edible leaves and they grow very fast, they take over gardens quickly. Sage, Thyme, Oregano and Basil are other popular herbs with edible leaves. Happy planting!
Reply:nasturtiums for one~whole plant
http://whatscookingamerica.net/EdibleFlo...
I wanted to plant gerber daisies, impatiens and zinnias in the same garden around my tree...?
but I heard that they all bloom at different times and can kill each other if I plant them together. Is this true? Please help!:)
I wanted to plant gerber daisies, impatiens and zinnias in the same garden around my tree...?
Impatients and zinnias are annuals which bloom all summer long. Daisies are a perennial, but most varities bloom for 3 months. I don't see any reason or way they'd kill each other. Put the impatients up front as a border, stick the zinnias in the middle of your bed and put the daisies at either end.
Reply:Around your tree? Your best option is to remove any vegetation and grass from around your tree from the base to the dripline and place a shredded hardwood mulch. Put down a Preen type product to eliminate the weeds (over the mulch) and water it in.
Impatients might tolerate being in the shade of a tree. Daisy and Zinna need full sunlight to grow healthy! The trees need for moisture, fertilizer, nutrients, etc. take more importance than a display of flowers under it.
If you want to highlight the tree go some two or three foot outside the dripline of the tree and develop a bed. Make a circular bed of about two/three foot width and six/inches depth. Place flexible edging around the front and back of the circle. Put the Daisey where it gets full sun in the center and the Zinna to the side of the Daisey. Put the Impatients where there is less sun.
In the mid to late fall, when you remove the annuals, turn the soil again but place either stakes or a granular fert in the soil to feed your Tree!!
If you insist on plants under the tree go with a Hosta plant.
Many are available. Consider the depth of shade and the color of the trees leaves. A verigated yellow Hosta is outstanding under a Red Leaf Tree. A pale Hosta is great under a deep green tree. These will flower in Mid-August to September and are perennial plants. They need water but only need fert in early spring and fall. Good Luck.
Reply:My only concern is their sun requirements. Gerberas and zinnias need full sun, and impatiens need partial, or full shade.
Reply:All are summer annuals so you have nothing to worry about. Perrenials are the only ones that bloom at different times of the year (i.e. tulips. mums, bleeding heart, lilies)
Sounds rather colorful, so I would advise to stick with impaniens of only one color that slso exists in the zinnias and daisies.
Good Luck
Reply:they are all annuals flowers so just plant them at different times also impatiens bloom till frost so I would just do them they come in lots of colors and spread very nice and do great under trees they love shade
I wanted to plant gerber daisies, impatiens and zinnias in the same garden around my tree...?
Impatients and zinnias are annuals which bloom all summer long. Daisies are a perennial, but most varities bloom for 3 months. I don't see any reason or way they'd kill each other. Put the impatients up front as a border, stick the zinnias in the middle of your bed and put the daisies at either end.
Reply:Around your tree? Your best option is to remove any vegetation and grass from around your tree from the base to the dripline and place a shredded hardwood mulch. Put down a Preen type product to eliminate the weeds (over the mulch) and water it in.
Impatients might tolerate being in the shade of a tree. Daisy and Zinna need full sunlight to grow healthy! The trees need for moisture, fertilizer, nutrients, etc. take more importance than a display of flowers under it.
If you want to highlight the tree go some two or three foot outside the dripline of the tree and develop a bed. Make a circular bed of about two/three foot width and six/inches depth. Place flexible edging around the front and back of the circle. Put the Daisey where it gets full sun in the center and the Zinna to the side of the Daisey. Put the Impatients where there is less sun.
In the mid to late fall, when you remove the annuals, turn the soil again but place either stakes or a granular fert in the soil to feed your Tree!!
If you insist on plants under the tree go with a Hosta plant.
Many are available. Consider the depth of shade and the color of the trees leaves. A verigated yellow Hosta is outstanding under a Red Leaf Tree. A pale Hosta is great under a deep green tree. These will flower in Mid-August to September and are perennial plants. They need water but only need fert in early spring and fall. Good Luck.
Reply:My only concern is their sun requirements. Gerberas and zinnias need full sun, and impatiens need partial, or full shade.
Reply:All are summer annuals so you have nothing to worry about. Perrenials are the only ones that bloom at different times of the year (i.e. tulips. mums, bleeding heart, lilies)
Sounds rather colorful, so I would advise to stick with impaniens of only one color that slso exists in the zinnias and daisies.
Good Luck
Reply:they are all annuals flowers so just plant them at different times also impatiens bloom till frost so I would just do them they come in lots of colors and spread very nice and do great under trees they love shade
When do Zinnias usually bloom?
are these not the easiest flowers to grow?
is Foxglove as easy?
can you combine the two in the same area or not?
why ?
When do Zinnias usually bloom?
I planted my zinnias sort of late, in a mixture of the soil that was already there, some potting soil, and cow manure,
on the sunny side of the garage, and watered them every day.
They bloomed from early July until almost Hallowe'en.
BTW I live in northern Indiana, about three miles south of the Michigan border.
Reply:Zinnias bloom in the summertime.
Ziinnias are sun lovers. Foxgloves can tolerate full sun but mine seem to prefer partial sun.
I have 0 ( zero ) luck growing Zinnias.
Reply:July-October
Digitalis (Foxgloves) are biennials
Reply:Summertime for zinnias. Foxgloves like it cooler.
Reply:Zinnias typically bloom in late summer in most areas and they are not difficult to grow. They are similar to most annuals.
Foxglove is a biennial that blooms in its second season unless you purchase a mature plant from a garden center. They can grow together with proper spacing, about 18" between the plants. Plant the foxglove behind the zinnias because the flower spike is high and will be framed well between the lower zinnias.
Best of luck
Reply:Zinnia's...can also re-seed...
My Zinnia's bloom in July and are still around in November.
Butterflies love Zinnia's too!!
Foxglove like partial sun.
And yes you can grow Foxglove with Zinnia's...Zinnia's will live in partial sunlight, but the blooms will be smaller.
Foxglove and Zinnia's and Black eyed Susan's...Shasta Daisy's make a wonderful companions!!
Good luck with your flowers...Happy Gardening!!
Reply:zinnias grow like weeds so keep them seperated and i have had luck planting them early in the spring even late winter they grow very easily
is Foxglove as easy?
can you combine the two in the same area or not?
why ?
When do Zinnias usually bloom?
I planted my zinnias sort of late, in a mixture of the soil that was already there, some potting soil, and cow manure,
on the sunny side of the garage, and watered them every day.
They bloomed from early July until almost Hallowe'en.
BTW I live in northern Indiana, about three miles south of the Michigan border.
Reply:Zinnias bloom in the summertime.
Ziinnias are sun lovers. Foxgloves can tolerate full sun but mine seem to prefer partial sun.
I have 0 ( zero ) luck growing Zinnias.
Reply:July-October
Digitalis (Foxgloves) are biennials
Reply:Summertime for zinnias. Foxgloves like it cooler.
Reply:Zinnias typically bloom in late summer in most areas and they are not difficult to grow. They are similar to most annuals.
Foxglove is a biennial that blooms in its second season unless you purchase a mature plant from a garden center. They can grow together with proper spacing, about 18" between the plants. Plant the foxglove behind the zinnias because the flower spike is high and will be framed well between the lower zinnias.
Best of luck
Reply:Zinnia's...can also re-seed...
My Zinnia's bloom in July and are still around in November.
Butterflies love Zinnia's too!!
Foxglove like partial sun.
And yes you can grow Foxglove with Zinnia's...Zinnia's will live in partial sunlight, but the blooms will be smaller.
Foxglove and Zinnia's and Black eyed Susan's...Shasta Daisy's make a wonderful companions!!
Good luck with your flowers...Happy Gardening!!
Reply:zinnias grow like weeds so keep them seperated and i have had luck planting them early in the spring even late winter they grow very easily
Where do you cut flowers on the stem?
I have:
1. Sunflowers
2. Daisies
3. Carnations
4. Zinnias
5. Baby's Breath
6. Bachelor's Buttons
Is there a GENERAL place to cut these flowers for bouquets, etc, on the stem? Like I heard for roses you need to cut three leaves down or something? What about these flowers I have listed? Where do I cut them?
Where do you cut flowers on the stem?
depends on the size of the vase or whatever you are putting them in, etc
one thing i DO know is that you cut them diagonally, so they can get the most amount of water sucking up in the stem =)
Reply:to the length you want them at a 40% angle slantered to suck the water in better
good luck
Reply:Where it hurts them the least.
Reply:cut flowers in a garden or flower shope
Reply:about 1 1/4 of an inch up.
Reply:it depends on how long you want the bouquet, or how big your vase is
Reply:always start cutting at the bottom but cut it slanting the cut..and each day you cut a little more off but a slanted cut.
kung fu
1. Sunflowers
2. Daisies
3. Carnations
4. Zinnias
5. Baby's Breath
6. Bachelor's Buttons
Is there a GENERAL place to cut these flowers for bouquets, etc, on the stem? Like I heard for roses you need to cut three leaves down or something? What about these flowers I have listed? Where do I cut them?
Where do you cut flowers on the stem?
depends on the size of the vase or whatever you are putting them in, etc
one thing i DO know is that you cut them diagonally, so they can get the most amount of water sucking up in the stem =)
Reply:to the length you want them at a 40% angle slantered to suck the water in better
good luck
Reply:Where it hurts them the least.
Reply:cut flowers in a garden or flower shope
Reply:about 1 1/4 of an inch up.
Reply:it depends on how long you want the bouquet, or how big your vase is
Reply:always start cutting at the bottom but cut it slanting the cut..and each day you cut a little more off but a slanted cut.
kung fu
Do perennial seeds grow really quickly and easily?
I am finding out that perennials , many come in seeds, are not expensive at all.
My question is this: by throwing out seeds are they very good and last a long time?
I mean just as good as if you bought them in pots at the nursery? (which I am sure are more expensive)
I am use to zinnia seeds and how they grow really tall and fast and look great. Are most perennials like this?
what about that giant sunflower?
Do perennial seeds grow really quickly and easily?
Perennial seeds mean they can grow from season to season, unlike annuals that only last one year.
You can plant perennials directly into the soil, provided your soil is suitable for growing plant-life. Potted plants are more expensive because some nurtured their growth, etc. Also, the gardner is working with an established plant versus the process of sowing and nurturing the seeds.
Perennial plants are all sizes and shapes. Cacti are perennial and azaleas are perennial. Zinnias are wonderful plants too. I have one area in my garden where I let zinnias grow naturally from year to year. I've grown sunflowers, and they do grow fast considering their size. I've used the seeds to feed birds, and if you don't pick them - the birds will help themselves!
Reply:It depends upon the perennial.
Usually, perennial (or biennial) seed grown plants do not gain the height or bushiness of a mature perennial or biennial plant that first growing season. Example: I don't think oriental poppies look good (leaf-wise) until the second or third year.
Giant sunflowers (annuals) grow quickly once they get going in the spring and summer.
Reply:seeds grow at different rates just like we do.it all depends on the temperature you keep them at to start with and how much daylight they get. if you don't have anywhere outside warm enough try putting the seed tray in a clear polythene bag , make sure they are moist first,on a window sill or near a radiator. but not to hot or they will shoot up to quickly .
My question is this: by throwing out seeds are they very good and last a long time?
I mean just as good as if you bought them in pots at the nursery? (which I am sure are more expensive)
I am use to zinnia seeds and how they grow really tall and fast and look great. Are most perennials like this?
what about that giant sunflower?
Do perennial seeds grow really quickly and easily?
Perennial seeds mean they can grow from season to season, unlike annuals that only last one year.
You can plant perennials directly into the soil, provided your soil is suitable for growing plant-life. Potted plants are more expensive because some nurtured their growth, etc. Also, the gardner is working with an established plant versus the process of sowing and nurturing the seeds.
Perennial plants are all sizes and shapes. Cacti are perennial and azaleas are perennial. Zinnias are wonderful plants too. I have one area in my garden where I let zinnias grow naturally from year to year. I've grown sunflowers, and they do grow fast considering their size. I've used the seeds to feed birds, and if you don't pick them - the birds will help themselves!
Reply:It depends upon the perennial.
Usually, perennial (or biennial) seed grown plants do not gain the height or bushiness of a mature perennial or biennial plant that first growing season. Example: I don't think oriental poppies look good (leaf-wise) until the second or third year.
Giant sunflowers (annuals) grow quickly once they get going in the spring and summer.
Reply:seeds grow at different rates just like we do.it all depends on the temperature you keep them at to start with and how much daylight they get. if you don't have anywhere outside warm enough try putting the seed tray in a clear polythene bag , make sure they are moist first,on a window sill or near a radiator. but not to hot or they will shoot up to quickly .
How can I get rid of flowers to plant vegetables?
I have a flower garden approx 4' x 20'. We have previously planted zinnias and other various flowers. We would like to plant vegetables...but every year the flowers come back. They don't do great and look ugly. How can we get rid of them and enrich the soil to grow some vegetables.
Also what is wrong when tomato plants grow really large and have fruit, but the fruit stays green and never ripens?
How can I get rid of flowers to plant vegetables?
Cover the whole bed with black plastic for 2 weeks and let it bake in the sun. The heat and lack of sun will kill every kind of seed, root, stems, etc. and it will also "sterilize" the soil of pests. If the sun does not get that hot (depends on where you live), you just need to leave it on longer. How long would depend on how hot it gets there.
For the tomatoes, I believe you just need the let them "fruit" much longer. I have never had tomatoes that stayed green. However, different types of tomatoes have different lengths of fruiting period.
Reply:the type of tomatoes are probably the cause of the coloring of them.
in your big friggin' flower garden, you may need to change the soil in it to new soil. or just plant your veggies and keep pullin' the "zinnias."
Reply:Cover the whole garden with newspaper. Hold it down with rocks and wet it. Put enough down so it will help keep your soil moist and keep the various flowers from coming up. If the flowers are perennials, dig them up and put the on Craig's list. Cut holes in paper where you want to plant the veggies. Good luck!
Reply:Round-up, then wait two weeks, this will kill all vegetation . Mix manure in with soil for rich soil 50/50. Sounds like your tomatoes were lacking nutrition, not this year if you do what I said.
Reply:try pullng out the flowers after they start growin this year and make sure to get the roots out good. sorry but idk about the tomato question.
Reply:tomatoes are technically vegetables by the way, what you do is you pull out all the flowers, get one of those metal rake things thats like a metal claw and soften all the soil, pull out the weeds so its just nice rich soil, water the soil later that night, claw it up again the next day, insert the seeds, water it, and it should work. Also dont forget about throwing fertilizer on the soil once theyre planted. Once the tomato plants start growing big, you might want to make some kind of metal rod support system and tie the stem to the metal rod to support it so that it doesnt just fall over and break
Reply:Probably not enough sun or bad soil for the green tomatoes. If you stick them in a brown paper bag they will ripen. Google square foot garden in regard to your flower problem.
You may want to read this article-BTW Flowers attract pollinating insects increasing vegetable production:
http://findarticles.com/p/articles/mi_m1...
http://www.gardeningknowhow.com/vegetabl...
Reply:take off 2 or four inches and put on new soil and plant vegetables. i think
Reply:Just dig them up and make sure you get all of the bulbs or roots. They won't grow back if their foundations are gone.
Reply:Dig in as much compost as you can get to improve the soil structure. Vegetables mostly require at least 6 hours of sun (so do zinnias), so if this is a shady spot, plant shade tolerant flowers there and move the veggie garden elsewhere.
As far as any stray seedlings coming up -- just hand weed. Easy and simple.
Tomatoes with green fruit at the end of the season sounds like either the cultivars chosen had too long a growing season for the area (check the "days" on the tags -- cherry tomatoes are generally short season, Romas and similar very long season).
or you gave them a lot of nitrogen at the beginning of the season and the plants didn't flower until late.
A good soils test before you put a veggie garden in an area that previously had problems with "easy flowers" is definitely in order.
Reply:Earls hole. When I start a new garden spot I start whith my own version of this.
Then start with deep mulch. Look up ruth stout. Basicily find about everything you can to make a thick layer of mulch. Your mulch compost from the bottom up. You may have to dig the holes fir the first few seasons dependind on your soil.But after a few it should be smooth sailing with very few weeds to pull.
Go organic in the end it is less work. I love no till gardening.
We all hope that you have hours of sun.
Reply:The only thing you can do is dig it up and find the roots. They're in the ground and you need to find them. You're going to have to dig the ground up to plant vegetables, after all. Find the roots/bulbs/whatever and take them out.
tags
Also what is wrong when tomato plants grow really large and have fruit, but the fruit stays green and never ripens?
How can I get rid of flowers to plant vegetables?
Cover the whole bed with black plastic for 2 weeks and let it bake in the sun. The heat and lack of sun will kill every kind of seed, root, stems, etc. and it will also "sterilize" the soil of pests. If the sun does not get that hot (depends on where you live), you just need to leave it on longer. How long would depend on how hot it gets there.
For the tomatoes, I believe you just need the let them "fruit" much longer. I have never had tomatoes that stayed green. However, different types of tomatoes have different lengths of fruiting period.
Reply:the type of tomatoes are probably the cause of the coloring of them.
in your big friggin' flower garden, you may need to change the soil in it to new soil. or just plant your veggies and keep pullin' the "zinnias."
Reply:Cover the whole garden with newspaper. Hold it down with rocks and wet it. Put enough down so it will help keep your soil moist and keep the various flowers from coming up. If the flowers are perennials, dig them up and put the on Craig's list. Cut holes in paper where you want to plant the veggies. Good luck!
Reply:Round-up, then wait two weeks, this will kill all vegetation . Mix manure in with soil for rich soil 50/50. Sounds like your tomatoes were lacking nutrition, not this year if you do what I said.
Reply:try pullng out the flowers after they start growin this year and make sure to get the roots out good. sorry but idk about the tomato question.
Reply:tomatoes are technically vegetables by the way, what you do is you pull out all the flowers, get one of those metal rake things thats like a metal claw and soften all the soil, pull out the weeds so its just nice rich soil, water the soil later that night, claw it up again the next day, insert the seeds, water it, and it should work. Also dont forget about throwing fertilizer on the soil once theyre planted. Once the tomato plants start growing big, you might want to make some kind of metal rod support system and tie the stem to the metal rod to support it so that it doesnt just fall over and break
Reply:Probably not enough sun or bad soil for the green tomatoes. If you stick them in a brown paper bag they will ripen. Google square foot garden in regard to your flower problem.
You may want to read this article-BTW Flowers attract pollinating insects increasing vegetable production:
http://findarticles.com/p/articles/mi_m1...
http://www.gardeningknowhow.com/vegetabl...
Reply:take off 2 or four inches and put on new soil and plant vegetables. i think
Reply:Just dig them up and make sure you get all of the bulbs or roots. They won't grow back if their foundations are gone.
Reply:Dig in as much compost as you can get to improve the soil structure. Vegetables mostly require at least 6 hours of sun (so do zinnias), so if this is a shady spot, plant shade tolerant flowers there and move the veggie garden elsewhere.
As far as any stray seedlings coming up -- just hand weed. Easy and simple.
Tomatoes with green fruit at the end of the season sounds like either the cultivars chosen had too long a growing season for the area (check the "days" on the tags -- cherry tomatoes are generally short season, Romas and similar very long season).
or you gave them a lot of nitrogen at the beginning of the season and the plants didn't flower until late.
A good soils test before you put a veggie garden in an area that previously had problems with "easy flowers" is definitely in order.
Reply:Earls hole. When I start a new garden spot I start whith my own version of this.
Then start with deep mulch. Look up ruth stout. Basicily find about everything you can to make a thick layer of mulch. Your mulch compost from the bottom up. You may have to dig the holes fir the first few seasons dependind on your soil.But after a few it should be smooth sailing with very few weeds to pull.
Go organic in the end it is less work. I love no till gardening.
We all hope that you have hours of sun.
Reply:The only thing you can do is dig it up and find the roots. They're in the ground and you need to find them. You're going to have to dig the ground up to plant vegetables, after all. Find the roots/bulbs/whatever and take them out.
tags
What are some good plants/flowers to plant?
Right now in my front flower bed I have Zinnias, they are the border beauty series I think and I would like to have something in the fall that has pretty flowers on them. Any good suggestions? Also I live in Texas so its pretty hot right now.
What are some good plants/flowers to plant?
There are plenty of "winter" bloom options for you in North Texas. Chrysanthemums, marigolds, mums
Reply:Plastic ones. You don't have to water them and you don't have to worry about the temperature.
Reply:Mums are a beautiful fall flower. They are also fairly inexpensive.
What are some good plants/flowers to plant?
There are plenty of "winter" bloom options for you in North Texas. Chrysanthemums, marigolds, mums
Reply:Plastic ones. You don't have to water them and you don't have to worry about the temperature.
Reply:Mums are a beautiful fall flower. They are also fairly inexpensive.
How to keep dogs from pooping in yard?
I have a nice planter that surrounds the base of my mail box %26amp; EVERYTIME I plant nice flowers or something in there and it is doing really good, this stupid dog from up the street comes and craps in it every time! I have seen the dog do it, the stupid thing litterally backs right up to it and poops and then lifts his leg to the flowers. My zinnias I just planted are now dying from the urine. He doesnt seem to bother it when there are no plants or if they are dead. I am getting sick of having to replace the plants in there %26amp; I cant find out who the owner of this mutt is! What can I use to deter the dog from pooping %26amp; peeing there?
How to keep dogs from pooping in yard?
Pick the poop up with a plastic bag and drop it in their lawn....Try a fence as a border. Or one of those joke growling dogs..The sensor type....Ask your neighbors,say, I am sorry to bother you,but can we talk about something that has been bothering me for a while?...Say,I have a nice garden area that has taken 100's :) of hours to to finish it ,and your sweet dog Fido uses my garden everyday as his as toilet. Is there a way you can keep him in your back yard so he won't continue his bad habit? He will safe from cars hitting him as well....They probably don't know that he is doing this? I bet they would keep him locked up...They should anyways,if they truly loved him.
Reply:I have the exact same problem, and yes I do not know who owns this one dog either. Here's something a friend sent me, hope this works for you:
http://dogs.about.com/od/safet... Report It
Reply:There are leash laws in most, if not all states now..if you can find the owner they must keep it in thier control at all times by law....If you cannot find the owner call your local animal control, but please make sure it is a city that does not uthenize thier animals after so many days...don't need a poor dog murdered...I hear also dogwood planted nearby a garden will keep dogs away
Reply:try a lil lime in the planter .. they say that helps ..
Reply:Go to a pet supply store and look for dog repellent products.
You can spray some on plants that will make them unattractive to dogs. Or spray the stuff on planter itself. There are ways to deal with that problem.
Reply:There are chemicals you can use, even have fun with a sensor that squirts deer, attached to your hose.
But the only sure way to stop it is if you follow the dog and ask the neighbor to kindly keep him from your yard
Reply:Keep some dog treats and a rope or leash handy. The next time you see the dog do his business, go out and call him while holding out a dog treat. When the dog comes, leash him and take into your house.
Next, call your local Humane Society and report that you have found a stray dog. The Humane Society will pick up the dog and it will cost the owner $$$ to get it back.
Repeat as necessary; the owner will either decide not to rescue his dog or decide to keep it in his own yard. Either way, your problem is solved.
Reply:The best gadget I've seen is called a water "scarecrow".
It is essentially a sprinkler that goes on when it senses motion. It would be ideal.
Reply:put pepper on the area and/or put a small fence there. my friend tried this and it works.
even ask the ppl to keep there dog in there yard. my friend tried this and it works
How to keep dogs from pooping in yard?
Pick the poop up with a plastic bag and drop it in their lawn....Try a fence as a border. Or one of those joke growling dogs..The sensor type....Ask your neighbors,say, I am sorry to bother you,but can we talk about something that has been bothering me for a while?...Say,I have a nice garden area that has taken 100's :) of hours to to finish it ,and your sweet dog Fido uses my garden everyday as his as toilet. Is there a way you can keep him in your back yard so he won't continue his bad habit? He will safe from cars hitting him as well....They probably don't know that he is doing this? I bet they would keep him locked up...They should anyways,if they truly loved him.
Reply:I have the exact same problem, and yes I do not know who owns this one dog either. Here's something a friend sent me, hope this works for you:
http://dogs.about.com/od/safet... Report It
Reply:There are leash laws in most, if not all states now..if you can find the owner they must keep it in thier control at all times by law....If you cannot find the owner call your local animal control, but please make sure it is a city that does not uthenize thier animals after so many days...don't need a poor dog murdered...I hear also dogwood planted nearby a garden will keep dogs away
Reply:try a lil lime in the planter .. they say that helps ..
Reply:Go to a pet supply store and look for dog repellent products.
You can spray some on plants that will make them unattractive to dogs. Or spray the stuff on planter itself. There are ways to deal with that problem.
Reply:There are chemicals you can use, even have fun with a sensor that squirts deer, attached to your hose.
But the only sure way to stop it is if you follow the dog and ask the neighbor to kindly keep him from your yard
Reply:Keep some dog treats and a rope or leash handy. The next time you see the dog do his business, go out and call him while holding out a dog treat. When the dog comes, leash him and take into your house.
Next, call your local Humane Society and report that you have found a stray dog. The Humane Society will pick up the dog and it will cost the owner $$$ to get it back.
Repeat as necessary; the owner will either decide not to rescue his dog or decide to keep it in his own yard. Either way, your problem is solved.
Reply:The best gadget I've seen is called a water "scarecrow".
It is essentially a sprinkler that goes on when it senses motion. It would be ideal.
Reply:put pepper on the area and/or put a small fence there. my friend tried this and it works.
even ask the ppl to keep there dog in there yard. my friend tried this and it works
How easy is it to grow Sweet Asslyum?
Do you just throw seeds out like you would zinnias?
do they grow really easy? do they like part shade?
do you do it each year?
How easy is it to grow Sweet Asslyum?
Sweet Alyssum is very easy to grow, it is a more tender plant than a Zinnia and sprouts sooner than a Zinnia. It depends on where you live as to when it is safe to start sowing seed. If you are buying prepackaged seed, follow the directions on back and know your zone. If you don't want to prepare your soil and plant in a design,and you just want to scatter them along where the Zinnias bloomed last year, then do it that way and look at it as a test, or do half and half, prepare a bed with half and scatter the other half on natural ground, keep your seeds moist, until you see new green growth,after the new growth begins, scatter a time released fertilizer around the ground, if mother nature don't furnish water, then you will have to. When you grow seeds in nature it become survival if the fittess,but you can help them along.. Good luck to you, All things are first started from seed. My grandmother grew all her plants from seed year after year, or cuttings from someone Else's plants.
Reply:Allysum is a piece of cake. In this past year mine have withstood weather ranging from four nights of 25 degrees to weeks of 110 degrees. Just rough up your soil with a rake and sprinkle the seeds. Then go back and pat all the soil down and water with a heavy mist or a light sprinkle a few times a day until they sprout. They will flower all year and come in a choice of beautiful colors. One plant will grow a foot wide. If they get leggy looking just pull the plant and new seedlings will sprout in a few days. They won't climb trees or walls but will hang over the edges of planters or walls. They will grow in sun and shade. All you have to provide is the water. And you only have to plant them once.
do they grow really easy? do they like part shade?
do you do it each year?
How easy is it to grow Sweet Asslyum?
Sweet Alyssum is very easy to grow, it is a more tender plant than a Zinnia and sprouts sooner than a Zinnia. It depends on where you live as to when it is safe to start sowing seed. If you are buying prepackaged seed, follow the directions on back and know your zone. If you don't want to prepare your soil and plant in a design,and you just want to scatter them along where the Zinnias bloomed last year, then do it that way and look at it as a test, or do half and half, prepare a bed with half and scatter the other half on natural ground, keep your seeds moist, until you see new green growth,after the new growth begins, scatter a time released fertilizer around the ground, if mother nature don't furnish water, then you will have to. When you grow seeds in nature it become survival if the fittess,but you can help them along.. Good luck to you, All things are first started from seed. My grandmother grew all her plants from seed year after year, or cuttings from someone Else's plants.
Reply:Allysum is a piece of cake. In this past year mine have withstood weather ranging from four nights of 25 degrees to weeks of 110 degrees. Just rough up your soil with a rake and sprinkle the seeds. Then go back and pat all the soil down and water with a heavy mist or a light sprinkle a few times a day until they sprout. They will flower all year and come in a choice of beautiful colors. One plant will grow a foot wide. If they get leggy looking just pull the plant and new seedlings will sprout in a few days. They won't climb trees or walls but will hang over the edges of planters or walls. They will grow in sun and shade. All you have to provide is the water. And you only have to plant them once.
Question and recommendation on perennial to plant?
i am going to be tilling an area in my garden that will cover a fairly good side of my back yard and am wanting to pick out a good perennial to grow there. It gets partial sun (6 hours) and it is in a temperate climate . I have a leaning towards a Salvia called "Ostfriesland" (East Friesland) and it looks so beautiful. But I think it only blooms for the months of June and July, so would like to know from any garden experts, if it would be a good idea to plant something in with it to give that area of my yard extra bloom time. I was think of possibly just throwing some zinnia seeds among it or planting another perennial in with the salvia. Is this advisable? what other suggestions you might have?
I also like the way Alysum or Artemisia look.
Basically I want something that blooms good and for longtime which is elegant. And does not look just awful in winter time.
Question and recommendation on perennial to plant?
Since you love the salvia, let it be your base plant. Go backward from the June bloom time and use bulbs to extend the bloom into February or March. Maybe start with Tommie Crocus, then early daffodils like February Gold, then Muscari neglectum, then species tulips like Tulipa clusiana that are perennial (not the regular tulips that don't last very many years past the first), then alliums, and German Irises.
Pick back up after July with hardy summer bulbs like Yellow Crocosmia and Surprise Lilies (Lycoris squamigera); then, for fall, sternbergia, Saffron Crocus and colchicum. You will have a rest period after these until the Tommie Crocus in late winter. Just about your only choice for bloom then is pansies or violas, Violas will give you the elegant look better than pansies. Plant them in October for bloom almost all winter in most places. Make sure the color violas you pick look good with the colors of the last few fall bulbs and the first few spring ones.
Plant your Salvia this spring when they become available, but kinda far apart like maybe 20-24". Decide what bulbs you want (these are just suggestions) from a mail-order catalog like mzbulb.com. Be sure to arrange the taller bulbs toward the back when planting those that will bloom together or consecutively. I believe you must order the Crocosmia in spring but the others should all be available as a fall order. Plant the fall-bloomers with a flag immediately, and plant the other with the violas in October. Cut the salvia back to about an 8" wide "pillow" (they should still be green) and fill in the gaps between all the salvia with the rest of the bulbs. Next year it should be glorious the whole year. In some places, if the violas are happy, they will reseed and after a few years you may not even need to replace them every October.
Reply:Although alyssum is an annual, it is great to use as an elegant filler in a large space if you plan on having multiple types of perennials there over time. Alyssum re-seeds itself freely, but not to the extent of being a weed. Get a good mix of lavenders, soft pinks and whites - one there's a good patch going, they seem to bloom forever like little white clouds! Intersperse with some bold zinnia is a great idea as well.
Reply:I love the salvias! You could use different kinds of salvias, zinnias are good (and easy), artemesia because the grayish color will help blend all the other flower colors, daylilies, coneflowers, and alyssum or moss rose as an edging.
This garden will attract butterflies and hummingbirds. And requires little care.
Good luck!
Gta vice city mp question
I also like the way Alysum or Artemisia look.
Basically I want something that blooms good and for longtime which is elegant. And does not look just awful in winter time.
Question and recommendation on perennial to plant?
Since you love the salvia, let it be your base plant. Go backward from the June bloom time and use bulbs to extend the bloom into February or March. Maybe start with Tommie Crocus, then early daffodils like February Gold, then Muscari neglectum, then species tulips like Tulipa clusiana that are perennial (not the regular tulips that don't last very many years past the first), then alliums, and German Irises.
Pick back up after July with hardy summer bulbs like Yellow Crocosmia and Surprise Lilies (Lycoris squamigera); then, for fall, sternbergia, Saffron Crocus and colchicum. You will have a rest period after these until the Tommie Crocus in late winter. Just about your only choice for bloom then is pansies or violas, Violas will give you the elegant look better than pansies. Plant them in October for bloom almost all winter in most places. Make sure the color violas you pick look good with the colors of the last few fall bulbs and the first few spring ones.
Plant your Salvia this spring when they become available, but kinda far apart like maybe 20-24". Decide what bulbs you want (these are just suggestions) from a mail-order catalog like mzbulb.com. Be sure to arrange the taller bulbs toward the back when planting those that will bloom together or consecutively. I believe you must order the Crocosmia in spring but the others should all be available as a fall order. Plant the fall-bloomers with a flag immediately, and plant the other with the violas in October. Cut the salvia back to about an 8" wide "pillow" (they should still be green) and fill in the gaps between all the salvia with the rest of the bulbs. Next year it should be glorious the whole year. In some places, if the violas are happy, they will reseed and after a few years you may not even need to replace them every October.
Reply:Although alyssum is an annual, it is great to use as an elegant filler in a large space if you plan on having multiple types of perennials there over time. Alyssum re-seeds itself freely, but not to the extent of being a weed. Get a good mix of lavenders, soft pinks and whites - one there's a good patch going, they seem to bloom forever like little white clouds! Intersperse with some bold zinnia is a great idea as well.
Reply:I love the salvias! You could use different kinds of salvias, zinnias are good (and easy), artemesia because the grayish color will help blend all the other flower colors, daylilies, coneflowers, and alyssum or moss rose as an edging.
This garden will attract butterflies and hummingbirds. And requires little care.
Good luck!
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